UMAREX/VFC G45 (Glock) Custom Hammer Mechanism

In the previous article, we finished disassembling the UMAREX/VFC G45.

This time, we'll customize the bike based on the review and the things we noticed during the disassembly process.

Custom purpose, goal

This time, the client requested the following items.

Next, here are the points that caught my attention.

Therefore, it seems that the issue can be resolved with the work requested by the customer, so we will proceed as planned.

The content is roughly the same as what I previously introduced when I reviewed the Glock 19X.

Therefore, we ask the customer to prepare replacement springs in advance before starting the work.

Custom work details

First, we'll start by assembling the most difficult part: the hammer assembly.

Assembling the hammer assembly

The spring set provided by the customer for this project is an AIP spring set with the same load as the Tokyo Marui Glock (product information will be provided at the end of the custom article, "Completion").

Let's compare it to the genuine product (the top one is the genuine product, the bottom one is from AIP).

Since each spring has a smaller wire diameter, fewer turns, and a shorter overall length, its operation will definitely be improved.

Let's take a look at the hammer spring.

AIP's wire is slightly thinner (or perhaps the same), and has fewer turns, so the load is weaker.

Now that I've checked the parts, I'll start assembling it.

First, apply Bellhammer Gold Grease No. 2 to each part.

Bellhammer No. 2 Gold Grease
This is a classic, top-quality grease. No. 2 has the same ingredients as No. 0 but with a higher viscosity. I primarily use it for metal-to-metal connections.

Apply this to the parts with a brush. By the way, I think it's a good idea to apply it to the chassis as well. There are many areas where the parts rub against each other, so it's quite effective.

Next, set the hammer and spring as shown in the picture.

Please leave the silver part on top assembled.

We'll now assemble this onto the chassis. It's difficult to assemble it directly with pins, so we'll use a pin punch to do a preliminary assembly. By the way, don't forget to assemble the knocker at the same time.

knocker

Preliminary assembly

Insert the pin punch little by little to adjust the position of the hammer and knocker as you assemble. It will be difficult to assemble due to the force of the hammer spring, so please do your best.

If you remove the pin punch after assembling the parts, the parts will fall apart, so insert the pins while gradually removing the punch.

The silver part is missing from the photo, but that's a mistake, so if you're going to rearrange it, do it with the silver part still attached.

Now the hammer is assembled.

Next, we'll assemble the shear, but I forgot to take pictures during the assembly process, so I'll explain using a picture of the finished product.

By the way, this is Sheer.

This is the assembled hammer unit.

If it's assembled correctly, when you drop the hammer, it should catch on the shear and stay in that position, so please check it.

Finally, we'll assemble the knocker return mechanism.

This part is prone to flying off if not assembled into the chassis, so we recommend assembling it just before attaching it to the chassis.

This is completed.

If you get stuck along the way, it's better to carefully observe the original state rather than blindly trying to fix it. For that reason, I recommend taking pictures while you're disassembling it.

If you don't have a photo, please refer to this (it includes many photos of the hammer unit).

I think a pin punch is essential for assembling the hammer unit, so I'll introduce my usual reasonably priced, good-quality punch.

Signet Pin Punch Set
It's not a luxury brand, but it's a recommended mid-range brand in the automotive industry that offers good value for money. Plus, it's inexpensive.

Next, we'll assemble it onto the chassis.

Chassis assembly

Before assembling the hammer unit, we'll grease the parts that significantly affect the trigger feel.

This is the trigger bar.

I always grease this bar because it can rub against the chassis and affect the trigger feel.

If this bar were making too much contact with the chassis, I would modify it, but it wasn't that bad this time.

By the way, since the parts here are made of resin and metal, we'll be using Bellhammer Gold Grease No. 0.

Bellhammer No. 0 Gold Grease
This is a classic, top-quality grease. No. 0 is a low-viscosity grease. I generally use No. 0 for resin-to-resistance and resin-to-metal connections.

The assembly process is simple and is the reverse of the assembly process, so please refer to the previous article.

The chassis is now complete.

By the way, there's a section on how gas blowback works, specifically the trigger mechanism, so please take a look if you're interested. The shape of the parts may differ slightly, but they're mostly the same.

Next, we'll adjust the hop settings.

Hop adjustment, custom

I'll do a little bit of modification to the inner barrel.

The hop-up window on the barrel always has a sharp edge due to a manufacturing issue, so lightly file it down. Be careful not to scratch the inside of the barrel.

Removing this edge reduces damage to the packing and makes it easier to apply hop.

I'll clean it because it's not good to have shavings left behind.

A round file is the recommended tool for this type of work.

Diamond file set
These diamond files offer great value for money. The round files, in particular, are very useful. The 5-piece set is highly recommended.

Next, I'll install the hop-up packing. The original hop-up has a long-range design, which is my preferred configuration, so I'll use that as is.

First, apply silicone grease to the inner barrel.

Next, we assemble the gasket and wrap it with sealing tape.

This is a simple, basic task.

By the way, I used to use Tokyo Marui's genuine high-viscosity silicone grease, but it was expensive and came in a small quantity, so I switched to AZ's silicone grease.

AZ Silicone Grease
This is a standard product from AZ. While Tokyo Marui's genuine grease is sufficient, the quantity is small, so AZ is recommended. It's also inexpensive.

KAKUDAI Seal Tape
This is a standard item for ensuring airtightness in all kinds of applications and can be used not only with airsoft guns but also with other items.

Next, we will modify the problematic hop arm.

First, here's the original condition.

The part that presses the hop-up mechanism is only at the front, and the rest is pressed by a spring, so the force is not applied evenly to the packing. Therefore, first, I'll add 1mm plastic sheet to the parts without protrusions so that the entire mechanism can press down.

I think this should give you a general idea of ​​how to press the buttons across the entire screen.

Next, I thought that the amount of hop-up pressure was insufficient from the start, so I added 0.2mm plastic sheet to the whole thing to increase the volume.

In the photo, the plastic sheet is slightly raised from the curved part and not flat, so I'll press it down, glue it, and process it to make it the right shape.

Now we'll assemble this.

Assemble the chamber and check the shape of the hop-up protrusion.

ホップ0

Hop MAX

Just to be sure, I'll load a BB and check the pull-out force due to the hop-up.

It turned out pretty well, so I'm finished with it.

Tamiya plastic sheet, 1mm thick
It's incredibly convenient for small crafting and fabrication projects. The possibilities are endless.

Tamiya plastic sheet, 0.2mm thick
It's incredibly convenient for small crafting and fabrication projects. The possibilities are endless.

• Adhesive with brush
I highly recommend it because the brush makes the work much easier.

I wanted to cover the entire process in one article, but it's getting long, so I'll finish it in the next post.

Next time, we'll cover the finished product.

Please take a look if you'd like.

UMAREX/VFC G45
This is one of Glock's latest models (GENERATION.5).

UMAREX/VFC G45 Spare Magazine
Since it's an imported product, I recommend getting it while supplies last.

・Injection valve for domestic gases
I recommend it (but be sure to use genuine O-rings).