Last time, I reviewed the Tokyo Marui Detonics .45 Combat Master.

This time, let's take it apart and examine the quality of the parts and assembly.
*This article aims to provide educational explanations from a mechanical engineering perspective regarding the safe hobby use of airsoft guns.
This does not promote acts of violence, the use of weapons, weapon modification, practical evaluation, or violation of laws and regulations.
Fieldstrip
First, we'll perform a field strip decomposition.
Pull back the slide to cock the hammer, then align the slide stop lever to the position shown in the picture below.

With the lever still in that position, pull it out towards the front of the photo.

This will separate the slide and the frame.

Because this is an older design, the hop adjustment needs to be set to this state.

Next, we'll remove the recoil spring.

1. Slide the bushing at the tip towards you to remove the bushing from the slide.
2. With the bushing slightly ajar, push the base of the barrel to remove it from the chamber.
3. Remove the recoil spring while holding down both ends.
As explained last time, the removed recoil spring is a double spring (a characteristic of the Detonics .45).

Next, pull the barrel out towards the front of the slide.

This completes the disassembly of the field strip.

The recoil spring can be difficult to remove if you're not used to it, but you'll be fine if you take your time and disassemble it (this is an inherent characteristic of compact M1911 models). Also, you won't need any tools up to this point.
Barrel disassembly
We will now disassemble the outer barrel and hop-up chamber.

First, remove the outer barrel.
The outer barrel is connected to the inner barrel, spring, and bushing, so press the protrusion inside the hole in the outer barrel shown in the photo below to release the connection. Don't worry if you don't understand the connection mechanism at this stage.

The outer barrel is fitted into the hop-up chamber, so lift the base of the outer barrel as shown in the photo below to remove it.

It's not too difficult if you use a thin flathead screwdriver to pry it up just a little. However, be careful not to pry it up too much, as this could damage the outer barrel.
Astro Products PB 100/0 flathead screwdriver, tooth width 2.5mm, tooth thickness 0.4mm
It's expensive because it's a private label product, but it's cheaper because it's a series that Astro sells. The quality is high because it's a private label product.

Next, we'll disassemble the hop chamber.

If the hop chamber can be separated, we will omit the disassembly of the chamber itself.
This is an overall diagram of the hop chamber-related components.

Now, let's take a closer look at the equipment that affects performance.
This is the inner barrel.

The hop-up window has an inner diameter of 6.08mm and is a wide type, typical of the high-quality genuine barrel. The tip is tapered, and the length is quite short, as expected for a compact model.
This is a hop packing. For clarity, the photo is taken upside down compared to the assembled state.

This is a standard, genuine Tokyo Marui accessory, a knob-type protrusion.
This is a hop-up arm.

This is also a standard design from Tokyo Marui. The protruding part of the hop-up arm is not compatible with long-range hop-up packing, so some ingenuity is required if you want to use long-range hop-up packing from companies like Miyagawa Rubber.
Now you can disassemble all the barrel components.

• Screwdriver set
While cheaper options are fine, for affordable yet high-quality products, I recommend brands like Hazet, Tone, KTC, and Vessel.
Disassembly of the slide and blowback engine
Here, we will remove the blowback engine from the slide and disassemble it.

Remove the screws from the slide rails.

Remove the hexagonal screw at the rear end of the slide.

Next, while extending the slide with both hands, press down on the nozzle with your dominant thumb to release the bleach and remove it.

The image below illustrates the concept.

Applying too much force can damage the slide or nozzle, so try to relax and take your time.
When disassembled, the following parts are revealed.

This is the blowback engine that was removed.


When you disassemble the blowback engine, the following parts will come out (disassembly is easy, so I will omit the details).

Let's take a look at the piston cup of the breech.

This is one of the key features of the Detonics .45 as an airsoft gun. To lower the rear end of the slide, the normally circular piston cup is partially cut out to create a D-shape.

When you remove the piston cup, it will look like the picture below.

One of the distinguishing features of this model is its relatively fast gas cut-off timing. This results in excellent fuel efficiency, at just 0.14g per shot.
This setup is well-suited for single-column magazines with a small gas capacity.
This is a nozzle.


Let's take a look at the disassembled slides.

The front sight is fixed, while the rear sight can be removed by sliding it.
This completes the disassembly of the blowback engine.

If you're interested, I've explained the operating mechanism of gas blowback guns, so please take a look.

Disassembling the frame
We'll start by disassembling the frame.

Remove the grip.

It contains a fairly large weight.
Next, remove the plate shown in the picture below. It's just resting on top, so it comes off easily.

The removed plate is a component that provides the click feel of the slide stop and thumb safety.


Cock the hammer and release the thumb safety. It will come off towards the front of the picture.

Next, remove the pin at the position shown in the picture. Be careful, as there is a specific direction in which to remove it.

Removing the pin will allow you to detach the hammer spring housing, leaf spring, and tail components. Disassembling these parts shouldn't be particularly difficult.

The hammer spring housing has a spring built inside, and its position relative to the hammer is as shown in the following photo. The hammer cannot be removed at this stage.

Next, remove the hammer and sear pins. Pay attention to their orientation.

The pins can be removed by hand, so be careful not to hit them with a pin punch, as this may scratch or damage them.
There are no parts that can be removed here other than the pins.
To remove the inner frame, remove the screws shown in the picture below.


Now you can remove the inner frame.

The knocker spring can easily fly off when removing it, so be careful not to lose it.
This is the removed inner frame.

Turn the inner frame to the other side and disconnect the disconnector.

You can see the plate that holds the hammer mechanism in place, so remove the screws and take off the plate as well.

This gives you access to the hammer's mechanical parts.

The hammer mechanism is a single-action type, which was quite refined even at the time of its release, similar to the M1911.
Disassembling the hammer mechanism reveals the following parts. The names of the parts explained in the photo above have been omitted.

Finally, remove the magazine catch.


This will allow you to remove the trigger as well.

This completes the disassembly of the frame.

Signet Pin Punch Set
It's not a luxury brand, but it's a recommended mid-range brand in the automotive industry that offers good value for money. Plus, it's inexpensive.
Vessel Plastic Hammer
It's inexpensive, sturdy, and long-lasting. For a good balance of control and power, the 1-pound size is recommended.
Eagle Force Maintenance Bench Block for Handguns
It's incredibly convenient to have. Moreover, it's designed for handguns but can also handle longer firearms, making it very useful. In fact, I personally didn't see the need for their M4 version.
Summary
My overall impression after disassembling it is that it successfully utilizes the features of the real-life model while also being a well-executed, orthodox gas blowback gun.
The parts of the mecha that I personally found interesting were the following:
- A spring between the outer barrel and the inner barrel
• Double spring recoil spring system
D-type piston cup
The internal mechanics of the frame are almost identical to those of the M1911, except for the removal of the grip safety (at the time of its release, the M1911 was also a newly released model with state-of-the-art mechanics).
Although it was newly released in 2007 and has a fairly old design, there are no parts of its internal structure that are clearly inferior (the spring inside the outer barrel has been eliminated in recent models). Rather, the Detonics .45 is Tokyo Marui's first single-action, single-column compact gas blowback model, so it seems like they put a lot of effort into it.
The quality of the parts and assembly is very high, and the grease is applied thoroughly. As expected from Tokyo Marui.
Although it has many parts, disassembly and reassembly are not particularly difficult, and I think even a first-timer can easily do it in about an hour and a half. I think it's easier than the Glock series, which are often disassembled.
The most challenging parts are removing the recoil spring, removing the outer barrel, and removing the blowback engine. I've tried to explain each step in detail, so please use this as a reference.
I hope this will be helpful for anyone considering disassembly, maintenance, or customization such as replacing parts with aftermarket ones.
That concludes our disassembly review of the Tokyo Marui Detonics .45 Combat Master.
Next time, we'll cover assembly and customization.

Tokyo Marui Detonics .45 Combat Master Black
This is the model I reviewed.
Tokyo Marui Detonics .45 Combat Master Stainless Model
Considering the realism of the actual product, I think the stainless steel model with a sandblasted finish has a better overall feel.
Tokyo Marui Detonics .45 Spare Magazine
Having at least one allows you to change magazines, making it even more enjoyable.
There are surprisingly many anime tie-in items still in stock, so it's worth looking around.
In my 2025 research, I looked for links where you can purchase the product at or below the regular price, rather than at resale prices.














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