Last time, we disassembled the frame of an early production run KSC Mk23 SOCOM pistol CO2 ABS.

This time, I'll be customizing it based on the issues that have become apparent during the previous disassembly.
Let's summarize the issues that have become apparent through the disassembly process so far.
*This article aims to provide educational explanations from a mechanical engineering perspective regarding the safe hobby use of airsoft guns.
This does not promote acts of violence, the use of weapons, weapon modification, practical evaluation, or violation of laws and regulations.
Customization direction
The following are the issues that have emerged from our previous articles on disassembling the slide and frame.
- Additional machining of the inner barrel window (something I always do)
- Polishing and greasing of each sliding part
- Deburring and greasing parts
- Machining of holes in the piston unit
It performs quite well straight out of the box (initial velocity around 80m/s with 0.2g BBs, 0.16g BB consumption per shot), but it seems like it could perform even better if the four issues mentioned above are resolved.

KSC's parts have good machining and assembly precision right out of the box, but most of the sliding parts are dry and lack grease, so simply applying grease should significantly improve them (Tokyo Marui's products have grease applied to the sliding parts).
The specific customizations are as follows:Basically, it involves polishing the parts, greasing them, and careful assembly. will be important.
Based on these considerations, we will begin by customizing the frame.
Assembly of the hammer mechanism unit
Let's take a look at the chassis that houses the Hammer Mech.
The task involves polishing the sliding parts of the chassis components with a rotary tool.
The areas of the chassis that need polishing are shown in the following photo.
Side of the chassis

Chassis opposite side

Chassis top surface 1

Chassis top surface 2

The polishing method involves using a rotary tool with a buffing pad attached and polishing as usual.

Dremel High-Speed Rotary 4000
This is my go-to rotary tool that I always use. Having this expands the possibilities of your DIY projects. There are two popular models, the 3000 and the 4000, but I recommend the 4000 because it comes with a set of tools and has more power.
As a guideline for the amount of abrasive material to use, aim for about 0.01 to 0.02 mm. It's difficult to put into numbers, but intuitively, it's about the amount needed to cleanly remove the paint.
This is the chassis after polishing.
After chassis polishing, side view 1

Chassis after polishing (opposite side)

Top view after chassis polishing

After polishing the chassis, polish the hammer unit section (including the inside).

We'll start assembling the parts from here.
The hammer mechanism consists entirely of moving parts, all of which are metal-to-metal combinations, so we assemble them while applying Bellhammer No. 2 Gold Grease.
Basically, you apply grease to both the parts and the chassis using a brush.
Bellhammer No. 2 Gold Grease
This is a classic, top-quality grease. No. 2 has the same ingredients as No. 0 but with a higher viscosity. I primarily use it for metal-to-metal connections.
In addition to the basic screwdriver and hex wrench needed for assembly, the following tools will be very helpful.
Signet Pin Punch Set
It's not a luxury brand, but it's a recommended mid-range brand in the automotive industry that offers good value for money. Plus, it's inexpensive.
Eagle Force Maintenance Bench Block for Handguns
It's incredibly convenient to have. Moreover, it's designed for handguns but can also handle longer firearms, making it very useful. In fact, I personally didn't see the need for their M4 version.
Vessel Plastic Hammer
It's inexpensive, sturdy, and long-lasting. For a good balance of control and power, the 1-pound size is recommended.
Install the shear pins into the chassis.

Attach the shear spring to the inserted shear pin.

Next, we'll assemble the shear.
The shear was manufactured using KSC's specialty sintering method (high precision while maintaining reasonable strength).

Assemble the shears onto the shear pins as shown in the following picture.

Next, let's look at the knocker (which KSC apparently calls an impact hammer).
The knocker, like the shear, was also sintered.

We will now integrate the knocker into the bifurcated section of the shear.

The knocker return spring is installed in the elongated hole of the knocker.

There's a knack to assembling this spring, and it's difficult to explain in words, but you move the assembled knocker and sear to create a gap and then insert the spring.
Please refer to the following photos for instructions on how to operate the shear and knocker.

From here, we'll be assembling KSC's SOCOM-specific components.
Let's go over the parts.
Shear actuator
It serves to connect the trigger bar and sear, and also acts as a lock for the thumb safety.

• Disconnector
It serves the function of separating the trigger bar and the sear.

Sim
Just position adjustment

These parts are assembled by inserting the sear pin through the side of the sear.
The following photo shows the product after installation.

This marks a crucial point in the assembly process, and it involves the unique mechanism of the KSC SOCOM.
From what I can see, everything except the knocker looks quite similar to the real thing.
Next, we'll assemble the CO2 impact hammer guide pin.

We will now install these pins into the chassis.

First, hook the assembled shear spring onto the pin, then pass it through the hole in the knocker.

Next, we'll assemble the trigger bar.
The trigger bar is a part that significantly affects the trigger feel, so we will carefully polish and grease the area shown in the following photo.

Other side

We will now install this trigger bar into the chassis.
To install the trigger bar, press the sear on the chassis with your finger to create a gap for the trigger bar.

Insert the trigger bar into this gap.

Next, let's look at the hammer.
The moving parts of the hammer will also be polished.

The hammer rebound spring is installed on the opposite side of this hammer.

Since this hammer rebound spring simply rests on the hammer, it tends to shift when assembled into the chassis, so I lightly glued it in place.
Loctite instant adhesive with brush
It's convenient because it comes with a brush-like attachment.
The hammer rebound spring appears to be there to prevent the hammer from rebounding when the trigger is pulled and it returns to its original position.
Without this spring, the hammer would vibrate uncontrollably when the trigger is pulled and the hammer returns to its original position.
We will now install the hammer into the chassis.

Assemble the sleeve to secure the hammer to the chassis.

Insert this sleeve, aligning it with the holes on the chassis and hammer.

This will make assembling the hammer mechanism a little easier.
At this point, just to be sure, press the sear to check if the hammer is working properly.

Next, we'll assemble the knocker lock.
It's commonly called a knocker lock, but KSC apparently calls it a CO2 impact hammer release.

Place this on the chassis.

Lightly tighten the hex bolt to secure the knocker lock.

Next, insert the O-ring into the hole where the decocking lever will go.

The final step in assembling the hammer mechanism is to assemble the hammer struts.
The hammer struts also have a significant impact on the hammer's operation, so we carefully polish and grease them (both sides).

Simply assemble this hammer strut onto the hammer and you're done.

This completes the assembly of the hammer mechanism.
While most modern handguns use either the 1911-style single-action or Glock-style striker-fired systems, the SOCOM has a unique mechanism that sets it apart, making it quite interesting.
Frame assembly
Now we'll assemble the hammer mechanism we've built so far into the frame.
Insert the hammer mechanism unit into the frame.

Next, we'll install the trigger and connect the trigger to the trigger bar.

This is the connection point between the trigger and the trigger bar.

Next, we'll install the trigger spring.

Attach this trigger spring to the trigger bar.

Hook the right-hand end of this spring onto the frame as shown in the following picture.

Insert the pin to secure the trigger.

That completes the trigger assembly.
Next, insert the pins that will secure the chassis to the frame.

This pin has a specific orientation, so be careful and assemble it properly.

Next, we'll assemble the hammer spring.

Install the hammer spring into the hammer strut.

Insert the insert into this spring and then close the lid.

Finally, attach the front of the chassis to the frame with screws.

This completes the assembly of the basic mechanical parts.
Just to be sure, at this stage, insert the magazine and check if it works correctly.
Action video
KSC SOCOM Pistol Hammer Mechanism Operation Check Video
As you can see in the video above, the hammer pushes the knocker and strikes the magazine valve.
When the valve is open and gas is released, the knocker lock is pressed, causing the knocker to retract and the valve to close, completing the operation.
The KSC SOCOM has a somewhat complex and unique mechanism due to its double-action, decocker, and special thumb safety, but its basic mechanism is that of a regular gas blowback gun.
If you're interested in the mechanism, there's an explanatory article available, so please take a look.

KSC's unique, realistic mechanism allows for finger decocking. However, since the SOCOM pistol has a decocker lever, there's probably not much reason to do this.
Assembly of thumb safety and decocking lever
Finally, we'll assemble the safety features, which are a bit tricky to put together.
First, we'll assemble an unfamiliar part called the decocking lockout.

This plate plays an important role in decocking.
To install it, insert it into the gap in the hammer as shown in the following picture.

Next, we assemble the shear block (this is also an unfamiliar term).

This is also inserted from the side of the hammer, as shown in the next picture.

This sear block engages with the sear actuator, allowing the thumb safety to lock the trigger and enabling decocking.
This shear block appears to control the shear's movement independently of the trigger. If there's enough demand, I'll try to explain the mechanism later.
Go back and assemble the ball and spring to create the click feel of the thumb safety.

Assemble this part in the position shown in the next picture.

Next, thread the thumb safety through the hole. This is a bit tricky because you need to align it with the crescent-shaped hole in the decocking blockout and shear block.

Attach the thumb safety on the opposite side.

Finally, insert the decocking lever and you're done.

In the disassembly section, we also disassembled the magazine catch, but since it wasn't relevant to this custom modification, we'll omit the reassembly explanation (it's a simple mechanism, so most people should be able to figure it out quickly).
With these customizations, the single-action trigger feel is now almost feather-light, and the decocking mechanism, which was stiff out of the box, is now smooth and can be operated with one hand.
KSC SOCOM Pistol Custom Single Action
KSC SOCOM Pistol Custom Decocking Function
KSC SOCOM Pistol Custom Thumb Safety Activated
The frame customization is now complete.
Summary

My impression of customizing the frame is that, because it uses KSC's unique realistic mechanics, I had quite a bit of trouble assembling it.
Once you know how to do it, it doesn't take much time, but since I usually use 1911-style and Glock-style pistols, it felt like I was fumbling my way through it (I think it's just a matter of getting used to it).
The customizations don't involve installing any special aftermarket parts; they simply involve polishing and greasing the components and carefully assembling the bike. Therefore, there's nothing particularly flashy about it, and the article ended up being more of an assembly guide than a detailed explanation of the customization process.
I believe we achieved a significant improvement in performance, even if it's a subtle one.
As long as it's a mass-produced product, there are limits to what any manufacturer or product can achieve, so I think the adjustments I've described here will be effective for any product.
I've written this article about disassembling and reassembling the product, but if you find disassembly and reassembly troublesome, simply performing a field strip and applying grease to the sliding parts should significantly improve its movement (especially since KSC products tend to be dry).
Thank you for your time.
Next time, we'll be showing the completed custom build, which focuses on the slide.

KSC Mk23 SOCOM Pistol CO2 ABS
This is the only gas blowback model of the SOCOM, and I highly recommend it.
KSC Mk23 SOCOM Pistol CO2 27-round Spare Magazine
Up until now, obtaining spare magazines from KSC was quite difficult (past tense). The future is uncertain.
KSC Genuine CO2 12g Cartridges (50-pack)
If you don't have any particular preferences, this isn't the only option (the price is a bit on the higher side). While 50 bottles might seem like a lot, they'll run out quickly. At your own risk, you might be better off with something cheaper.











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