KSC Beretta M9 HW SYSTEM7 Disassembly and Maintenance (M92F)

last timeThis is an overhaul of the KSC M9 HW System 7, specifically replacing the hop-up packing.I did it.

This time, we'll be disassembling, cleaning, and greasing the blowback engine and the moving parts of the frame for maintenance. You don't necessarily have to do this yourself; KSC should be able to do it for you for a fee.

Since we were able to overhaul the outer barrel area in the last step, we will now disassemble the remaining slide parts.

Disassembly of a blowback engine

First, remove the decocking lever on the right side.

Remove the hexagonal screw shown in the picture. If you frequently decock your watch, this screw may loosen, so it's a good idea to check it regularly.

Once you remove the screw, the decocking lever on the right side will come off.

Next, turn the decocking lever on the left to the opposite side of the decocking mechanism.

When you turn it, a pin will pop out, so pull the decoking lever to remove it, being careful not to lose the pin.

At this point, the pin and spring will remain in the position shown in the photo, so be careful not to lose them (where the lever on the right side of the slide used to be).

With this setup, there's nothing holding the breech to the slide; it's simply fitted into the slide, allowing the blowback engine to be removed.

From the looks of it, it's a standard negative-pressure blowback engine. Compared to Tokyo Marui's products, the nozzle return spring has a higher load setting.

This is the back side.

Let's try removing the nozzle from here.

The piston cup is orange and has a 15mm diameter, which is a selling point of the System 7.

Next, we'll disassemble the nozzle.

The flow valve's shape is quite cleverly designed. Judging from its shape, it appears that more gas will be directed to the firing side of the projectile. Also, because the flow valve is small and lightweight, it seems that switching between the gas routes for firing and blowback can be done quickly.

This is a photo of the entire decocking and blowback engine components.

Once you've disassembled it this far, simply apply your usual Bellhammer Gold Grease No. 0 to all the moving parts and reassemble it (you can reassemble it in the reverse order).

It depends on your preference, but I'm the type who applies grease inside the nozzle as well (it doesn't come with grease out of the box). Because of my profession, I can't really accept moving parts without lubrication, so I apply just enough so as not to hinder their operation.

Bellhammer No. 0 Gold Grease
This is a classic, top-quality grease. No. 0 is a low-viscosity grease. I generally use No. 0 for resin-to-resistance and resin-to-metal connections.

If you're interested in the operating principles of gas blowback guns, I've written an explanatory article, so please take a look if you're interested.

Maintenance of the trigger and hammer

Next, we will perform maintenance on the trigger and hammer mechanism.

First, remove only the screws holding the grip panels. I think it's best not to remove the grips yet.

Remove the other side in the same way.

Next, when you want to strip the field, please keep the button you're supposed to press pressed.

While holding it down, turn the takedown latch on the opposite side in the opposite direction from the direction you would normally turn it when performing a field strip.

When you turn it, it will look like the next picture, and the pin and takedown latch will be released.

The parts that can be removed here are the following:

The reason we asked you to keep the button pressed with your right hand is because the button is spring-loaded and could easily fly off. Please be careful, as you might lose it.

Next, remove the pin located near the trigger in the picture.

Even after removing the pin, please refrain from removing the trigger group and instead remove the grip.

Remove the spring that holds the trigger bar in place on the right side after removing the grip.

This allows you to remove the entire trigger assembly.

After disassembling the trigger area, clean off any dirt and apply Bellhammer Gold Grease No. 2.

Bellhammer No. 2 Gold Grease
This is a classic, top-quality grease. No. 2 has the same ingredients as No. 0 but with a higher viscosity. I primarily use it for metal-to-metal connections.

Next, let's look at the hammer area.

Since I was able to access the mechanism without further disassembly, I proceeded with cleaning and greasing it as is.

Incidentally, many of KSC's gas blowback gun hammer components are not made from zinc die-cast, but rather from iron-based sintering, which makes them very sturdy and precise.

Sintering is a manufacturing method in which a material made by mixing metal powder (iron powder) with an adhesive component is placed in a mold and fired to solidify it. Generally, it is stronger than die casting but less strong than forging. Furthermore, it is a manufacturing method that allows for higher precision and is generally considered a high-end manufacturing method.

This manufacturing method is commonly used in real firearms, and it seems that in the United States around 1900, the hammers and triggers of revolvers were made using this knotting technique. Typical of an industrially advanced country like America (though I think machining is more common these days).

side

Then, carefully assemble it in the reverse order, and you're done.

Greasing, assembly in progress

If you're interested, I've explained the hammer and trigger mechanisms of gas blowback pistols, so please take a look. However, the example I'm using is not the hammer-driven double-action of the M9, but rather an internal hammer like that of a Glock.

Live-fire performance verification

Regarding the live-fire performance check, since it's basically just an overhaul, there won't be a dramatic difference in performance, but we'll check it anyway.

First, as usual, fill the magazine with HFC-134a gas and measure the surface temperature at approximately 30°C and room temperature of 20°C.

The BBs used were G&G 0.2g bio BBs, and the hop-up was checked at the minimum setting.

The magazine temperature is a little high, but it's performing well, with muzzle velocity comparable to a standard electric airsoft gun.

If you continue firing all the rounds in the magazine, the velocity will settle at approximately 77 m/s.

If you're interested, please also check out my review of the chronograph.

Next, here's a video showing how it works.

KSC M9 HW system7 (overhauled)

It's working very well.

Actually, I also own a KSC M9 with an ABS slide, so I filmed the movement with the ABS slide for reference.

KSC M9 ABS system7 (overhauled)

It's about as weak as a CO2 gas blowback. I like the weighty recoil of the HW version, but I also really like the crisp, fast recoil of the ABS version.

In actual airsoft games, I think a lighter ABS slide is advantageous in terms of rapid firing and fuel efficiency.

However, in my experience, while KSC's gas blowback handguns have excellent ABS slide movement, it's so smooth that it can sometimes crack. The ones that cracked for me were the ABS slides on my HK45 and CZ75 (the HW slides don't crack).

In the case of this particular M9, the slide is sturdy due to its shape, and the notch wear that KSC often mentions is not a problem at all, perhaps due to the unique shape of the M9.

However, ABS slides aren't available for sale (I really wish they would).

For reference, here is a weight comparison.

ABS is 55.5g lighter, nearly 25% lighter than HW (heavyweight) standards.

Conversely, it could be said that the fact that the blowback engine operates so smoothly despite weighing 236.5g is quite impressive.

G&G Bio-Bullets 0.2g
It's inexpensive and accurate, so I use it for a wide range of purposes, from performance testing to airsoft games. It's been my favorite since it first came to Japan (around 2008). It lasts a long time for a biodegradable product.

G&G Bio-Bullets 0.25g
It's 0.25g. I generally use 0.25g BBs when playing airsoft.

Summary

In short, it's recommended because it improves things without requiring much time, effort, or money (though there might not be much demand since not many people have it?).

Conversely, KSC's M9 can last for over 10 years with basic maintenance, and will last even longer with simple servicing, so I think it's an excellent product. If you're an M9 fan, I recommend KSC's M9 HW system7 as the definitive version.

Finally, KSC, please, I beg you, sell an ABS slide version as well.

Thank you for your time.

・KSC M9 HW System 7
This is the definitive M9.

・Le Pair Magazine
I used to be a magazine refugee and would buy it whenever I found it. Lately, it seems to be fairly readily available.