BATON BM-45 CO2 GBB FDE 3rd Lot Frame Disassembly

Last time, we disassembled the slide of a Baton BM-45 3rd production run.

This time, we'll be disassembling the remaining frame.

As always, I proceed by disassembling the parts, noticing any issues, assessing their condition, and considering the direction of the customization as I go.

Disassembling the frame

Let's take a look at the remaining frame portion.

I usually measure the weight of the frame as well, but I forgot again, just like last time.

It feels a little light. This is because, with a regular GBB, there is a gap between the grip and the magazine where you can add weight to increase the weight, but with a CO2 model, there is no space to add weight due to the design of the CO2 cartridge, so it can't be helped.

However, it doesn't have a cheap, flimsy feel, so I don't think it's a problem.

Next, remove the grip panels (remove the screws shown in the photo above).

This is the removed grip.

The grip isn't a laminated G10 grip, but rather a resin grip with a well-executed paint job. While the paint on other parts was weak, the paint on this grip seems strong and unlikely to peel.

Naturally, there are no weights.

Disassembly of chassis safety-related components

We will now disassemble the parts enclosed by the yellow lines in the photo below (thumb safety, grip safety, etc.).

First, remove the pins shown in the picture above. Be careful, as there is a specific direction in which the pins should be removed.

I carefully remove them using Eagle Force's base (bench block) and pin punch.

The following tools are recommended for modifying gas blowback airsoft guns.

Signet Pin Punch Set
It's not a luxury brand, but it's a recommended mid-range brand in the automotive industry that offers good value for money. Plus, it's inexpensive.

Eagle Force Maintenance Bench Block for Handguns
It's incredibly convenient to have. Moreover, it's designed for handguns but can also handle longer firearms, making it very useful. In fact, I personally didn't see the need for their M4 version.

Vessel Plastic Hammer
It's inexpensive, sturdy, and long-lasting. For a good balance of control and power, the 1-pound size is recommended.

Next, remove the part with the lanyard ring attached.

I'll change direction.

Once you remove the parts, you'll see the leaf spring, which is an important component.

Remove the leaf spring here.

This leaf spring, a staple in the 1911 series, is a clever design that uses a single part to perform multiple functions (typical of John Browning).

Although the operating methods (air cocking vs. gas blowback) are different, here's an article to understand the role of the leaf spring. Well, the mechanism of the chassis part of a single-action 1911 series is almost the same as an air cocking gun, with the only difference being the addition of a knocker that strikes the gas valve and a knocker return (a bit of a stretch, perhaps?).

I recommend reading the following article, as it will help you understand not only the leaf springs but also the basic mechanism of the 1911 chassis.

By the way, the backstrap-like part with the lanyard ring that I removed first is an extremely important component.

Surprisingly, it has a hammer spring built inside.

I'll change direction.

The rod extending from the hammer makes contact with the black part of the component shown in the photo above. This black part moves up and down due to a spring, which also allows the hammer to move.

Therefore, the striking force of the hammer is determined by the spring (hammer spring) inside this part.

Next, we'll remove the thumb safety. Lift the thumb safety before removing it.

The safety can be removed by lifting it up.

Remove the other side in the same way.

This also allows you to remove the grip safety.

Finally, remove the plunger and spring, which are easily forgotten and lost.

Now we can disassemble everything related to safety.

Here's a recap of the overall layout of the safety features.

Please note that since the parts were completely disassembled and then rearranged, other parts besides those mentioned above have also been taken apart.

So far, there aren't many things I'm dissatisfied with, but the green grease is still a bit bothersome. Also, the paint job is still quite flimsy, as usual.

When I customize it, I plan to improve its operability by regreasing and polishing the parts.

Disassembly of the hammer unit

Next, we will disassemble the hammer unit.

Remove the two pins shown in the picture below.

This pin is not press-fitted and can be easily removed.

Next, remove the screws on the front of the frame.

Now, lift the hammer unit and the whole assembly will come off. Be careful not to lose the spring (knocker lock spring) at this time.

Once you disconnect the disconnector, the screw heads will be exposed, so remove the screws.

Next, we'll remove the sear, hammer, etc.

When removing the knocker, be careful not to damage the coil spring that moves the knocker.

This completes the disassembly of the hammer unit.

Let's take a look at the overall layout of the hammer unit (it includes triggers that haven't been introduced yet).

I previously explained the hammer unit's operating mechanism in an article, but that was for a built-in hammer system like the Glock. The 1911 series, which uses a single-action mechanism, has a slightly different mechanism, so I'll explain that separately sometime in the future.

The photos are out of order, but lastly, we'll remove the trigger.

Remove the magazine catch.

While pressing the magnetic catch, the slotted screw can be removed by turning it about half a turn.

Then, you can remove it by moving the trigger in the direction shown in the next picture.

With this, most of the chassis components have been disassembled.

Replacing the trigger on a 1911 series pistol requires disassembling it this much, which makes it seem a bit troublesome.

Compared to the latest hammerless (striker-fired) automatic pistols, the 1911 series had an older design, a large number of parts, and was difficult to disassemble.

Summary

My impression after disassembling the frame is that, like the slide, it's very solidly put together.

Thinking about it, 1911-style airsoft guns and gas guns have a long history, so their designs are refined and they all seem to be quite similar (maybe just like the real thing).

Perhaps WA is the only airsoft gun manufacturer that uses a unique technique called SCW (apparently, you can decock the gun with your finger). I'd like to get my hands on a WA product someday and write an article about it.

Aside from the mechanism itself, I was concerned about the weak paintwork, the rough assembly, and the mysterious alien grease. It's perfectly usable right out of the box, but I feel like there are some areas that could be improved.

Regarding the paintwork, I personally think there are some unavoidable limitations. A truly durable paint finish requires methods like baking, electrocoating (such as plating), or vapor deposition, which involve significant costs and equipment, making it difficult to achieve at this price point.

Even in my own field of expertise, automobiles and motorcycles, painting is a troublesome issue that requires long-term research, accumulated know-how, and large-scale equipment. Furthermore, the painting process generates a lot of industrial waste, and the thought of setting up new painting facilities is enough to make your head spin.

Conversely, I'm surprised by the amazing paint quality of Tokyo Marui's recent products.

Next time, we'll assemble the gun while polishing and regreasing the hop-up, barrel, and all the moving parts that I was concerned about in the slide section.

Baton BM45 CO2 GBB
You can choose the color at the link provided. Black, black grip, and FDE (the model featured in this blog) are available.

BM45 Spare Magazine (Type-N, gasket, improved lip)
This is the latest magazine from 2022. Please note that the TYPE-N is an improved model with a modified lip and gasket, so be careful not to make a mistake when purchasing.

・1911 CO2 Magazine (Type-NL, gasket, lip, improved version with increased ammunition capacity)*Note: When attached to the 1911 or BM45, the CO2 cylinder will be visible from the outside.
Before I knew it, a version had appeared that had switched from single-column to double-column ammunition, increasing the magazine capacity from 15 rounds to 27. It seems the BN-SILENT HOWK is the main ammunition type, and with BM45 and 1911 versions, the CO2 cartridge is visible from the outside. It's a tough choice between ammunition quality and appearance (it's about 1000 yen more expensive than the one above).

・Baton (PUFF DINO) CO2 12g cartridge
These are genuine gas canisters. The manufacturer is Puff Dino, but Baton is the authorized distributor and treats them as genuine. It seems that only these canisters are eligible for the 3-month warranty. You can choose between packs of 6 or 50.

Marushin CO2 12g cartridge
I think Marushin offers the best balance of price and quality. You can choose between a set of 5 or 30. However, you will no longer be eligible for Baton's 3-month warranty.