In a previous article, I introduced a custom Baton BG-17 CO2 GBB (Glock 17 GEN.5).
After customization, I actually used it in indoor shooting and airsoft games, and luckily there were no problems and it worked well (approximately 1000 rounds fired).
My unit shows no signs of the hammer or recoil spring guide breakage issues that have been reported as problems.
My own unit is fine, but I received an improved version from Baton that addresses the hammer breakage issue, so I'm going to replace it.
I've previously shown how to disassemble and reassemble the hammer, but with the recent distribution of improved hammers, I think many people will be replacing them themselves, so I've created an article that will guide you through the hammer replacement process step by step.
Let's get started with the replacement.
*This article aims to provide educational explanations from a mechanical engineering perspective regarding the safe hobby use of airsoft guns.
This does not promote acts of violence, the use of weapons, weapon modification, practical evaluation, or violation of laws and regulations.
Removal of the hammer unit
Before starting the work, I picked out the tools that I personally thought I might need.
It's not necessarily impossible to complete the task if you don't have everything, but it's much more convenient if you do.
Signet Pin Punch Set
It's not a luxury brand, but it's a recommended mid-range brand in the automotive industry that offers good value for money. Plus, it's inexpensive.
Eagle Force Maintenance Bench Block for Handguns
It's incredibly convenient to have. Moreover, it's designed for handguns but can also handle longer firearms, making it very useful. In fact, I personally didn't see the need for their M4 version.
Vessel Plastic Hammer
It's inexpensive, sturdy, and long-lasting. For a good balance of control and power, the 1-pound size is recommended.
Tamiya Curved Tweezers
It's very useful for installing small springs.
• Screwdriver set
While cheaper options are fine, for affordable yet high-quality products, I recommend brands like Hazet, Tone, KTC, and Vessel.
Now, let's go over the procedure for removing the hammer unit.
Perform a fold strip.
The part to be replaced this time is the hammer, so we will only disassemble the chassis. It is easier to proceed with this work if the hammer is cocked, so I recommend pulling the trigger once.
We will now remove the spring that is pushing up the slide lock lever.
The method involves using a flathead screwdriver to push down only the spring and shift its position.
Slide the slide lock lever sideways to remove it.
Remove the screws from the front internal frame.
Once you remove the screws, you can take out the front internal frame. Note that you should also remove the trigger spring at the same time as the front internal frame.
This leaves the trigger and slide stop lever in the front internal frame.
Next, remove the trigger pin. Be careful, as there is a specific direction in which to remove the trigger pin.
This will allow you to remove the slide stop lever and spring.
Next, remove the bolts that secure the hammer unit.
Next, remove the pin.
Now you can remove the hammer unit.
This allows you to remove the hammer unit and trigger assembly.
This will give you access to the hammer unit.
Disassembly of the hammer unit
Before disassembling the hammer unit, I'll examine it to make sure I don't forget how to reassemble it.
Hammer unit left side
Rear of the hammer unit
Hammer unit, right side
These three photos show the arrangement of all the parts inside the hammer unit, so please refer to them if you get confused during assembly.
We will proceed with the disassembly.
Remove the knocker return and knocker return spring. These two parts come off easily, so be careful not to lose them.
Next, we will remove the shear spring.
The spring is attached to the knocker, so remove it.
The spring will look like this when it is released.
Next, remove the pin to take off the shear spring and shear.
When you remove the pin, the part will come off as shown in the following picture.
Finally, remove the pin that secures the hammer. Be careful, as the pin has a stepped design and can only be removed in one direction (pull it towards the back in the photo).
This completes the disassembly of the hammer unit.
For confirmation, here is a list of the components of the hammer unit.
Since I have the opportunity, I'll compare it with the countermeasure hammer.
Hammer comparison
We will compare the hammer before and after the countermeasures were implemented.
front
Left side (left is the front)
Later
Right side (the right side of the photo is the front)
From what I can see, there doesn't seem to be any change in shape, so that means there will be no changes to the mold.
Since the color has changed, the main solution will likely involve additional heat treatment and surface treatment.
As mentioned in the disassembly section on the frame, this hammer is likely manufactured using a method called MIM (or possibly sintering), which simply involves mixing material powder (metal powder) and adhesive (binder) and then firing it to solidify. Therefore, in addition to heat treatment and surface treatment, it is highly probable that adjustments are made to the mixing method of the powder, the firing method, and the cooling method in the MIM process.
Since the material is likely iron-based (such as S35C), I believe the heat treatment and surface treatment are strengthened by carburizing or nitriding (the ability to add heat treatment and surface treatment is one of the characteristics of sintering and MIM).
It's difficult to know exactly how much the strength has increased with these measures without measuring the hammer's hardness, but based on my experience, shallow carburizing (penetrating carbon to a depth of 2-3 mm from the surface), which is the cheapest surface treatment option, increases the strength by about 15-20%.
Simply put, if the strength increases this much, the lifespan will be extended considerably, so it looks promising. However, it's impossible to tell just by looking whether this modification ensures sufficient durability, so we'll have to trust Mr. Baton's tests and monitor the situation over time.
In terms of cost, the unit price for heat treatment and surface treatment varies greatly depending on the size of the kiln, the number of pieces that can be baked in one batch, the baking time, and the gas settings, but for light carburizing, the increase will probably only be around 15 to 20 yen (absorbed by reducing the profit margin rather than passing it on to the price).
In any case, they are taking measures to definitely increase the strength, so I think that's a good thing.
Based on this, if you are considering purchasing a new BG-17, you can tell if it's compatible by removing the slide and checking the color of the hammer.
While it's difficult to verify the product when ordering online, most shops will allow you to see it if you ask a staff member, so it's worth asking.
Assembly of the hammer unit
Since you've already disassembled it, I recommend applying grease to the hammer mechanism before reassembling it.
Bellhammer No. 2 Gold Grease
This is a classic, top-quality grease. No. 2 has the same ingredients as No. 0 but with a higher viscosity. I primarily use it for metal-to-metal connections.
You should be able to feel the difference in operation just by applying grease.
We'll now assemble the hammer (the hammer in the photo is the pre-modification version, but the method is the same).
The parts needed for the first step are shown in the following picture.
Before actually assembling it, we'll do a preliminary assembly to make the hammer assembly process easier to understand.
As a precaution
- Insert the knocker between the legs of the hammer.
- Check the position of the hammer spring
- Check the position of the roller?
.
Use a pin punch to assemble it into the hammer unit frame so that it is in this state.
Assemble the knocker into the frame.
Assemble the hammer in this state as shown in the next picture.
Keep this position and insert a pin punch from the right side (aligning the hammer hole with the knocker hole).
With the hammer temporarily assembled using this pin punch, insert the stepped pin into the insertion opening (the direction is important).
Continue removing the punch while hammering in the pin.
The Signet pin punch I mentioned is quite convenient because it has a punch with the same diameter as the hammer pin.
If assembled correctly, it will look like the following picture.
Rear
側面
Next, we'll assemble the remaining parts of the hammer unit.
These are the remaining parts.
Next, we will place each component.
With the pin in this position, insert the sear SPG and apply it to the knocker.
If all goes well, it will assemble like the following picture.
All that's left is to assemble the remaining knocker lock and knocker lock spring, and you're done.
The hammer unit is now complete.
Chassis assembly
We will now install the hammer unit into the chassis.
Next, we'll insert the assembled hammer unit, trigger bar, and trigger into the frame.
Screw the hammer unit in place to secure it.
Insert the pin that secures the hammer unit (pay attention to the direction).
Next, install the slide stop and slide stop spring around the trigger.
The key point here is to pay attention to the relative positions of the slide stop lever and the spring.
Next, insert the trigger pin from the left side.
With the trigger spring in this position, assemble it into the front frame and insert it into the frame (be careful not to drop the trigger spring).
After installing the screws that secure the front chassis, use tweezers to attach the trigger spring to the trigger bar.
Next, insert the takedown plate.
Install the takedown spring near the plate.
Finally, push the spring with a flathead screwdriver and move it under the takedown plate.
This is completed.
Summary
This time, I've focused on the hammer, which is the part that needs replacing. The explanation might seem a bit long-winded, but I've tried to make it so that even first-timers can successfully complete the task by following the steps in order from top to bottom.
Ideally, you should follow Mr. Baton's website, videos, and the instruction manuals that come with the parts, but the content seems geared towards people who already know a fair bit, and it focused too much on just replacing the hammer, which made it seem difficult, so I decided to write this article while I was doing the work myself.
In particular, the fact that Mr. Baton only provides instructions for replacing the hammer part is understandable from a warranty perspective, as it's a natural thing for a retailer to do (they don't want users to touch unnecessary parts).
After doing some research, it seems that Baton doesn't generally offer free hammer replacements (free repairs for malfunctions covered under warranty), so the only options are to ask a shop or do it yourself. That's why I've written this article as a kind of manual.
In terms of the tasks involved, if you're familiar with the process, it should take about 15 minutes, but even someone with no prior experience should be able to complete it in about an hour.
I hope this will be helpful for those who are trying to replace the hammer themselves.
Thank you for your time.
If you're interested, please take a look as I've been adjusting and customizing them.
Baton BG-17 CO2 GBB (Glock 17 GEN.5 MOS)
If you buy it online, it's hard to tell before and after the hammer incident. With Amazon, you'll be taken directly to Baton, so you might want to contact them and confirm.
Baton BG-17 Spare Magazine
This magazine seemed like it would be quite durable.
・Baton (PUFF DINO) CO2 12g cartridge
These are genuine gas canisters. The manufacturer is Puff Dino, but Baton is the authorized distributor and treats them as genuine. It seems that only these canisters are eligible for the 3-month warranty. You can choose between packs of 6 or 50.
Marushin CO2 12g cartridge
I think Marushin offers the best balance of price and quality. You can choose between a set of 5 or 30. However, you will no longer be eligible for Baton's 3-month warranty.
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