In the previous articles, we introduced the disassembly and customization options for the Baton BG-17 CO2 GBB (Glock 17 GEN.5).

This post summarizes the issues and customization directions that emerged from the review and disassembly process.
*This article aims to provide educational explanations from a mechanical engineering perspective regarding the safe hobby use of airsoft guns.
This does not promote acts of violence, the use of weapons, weapon modification, practical evaluation, or violation of laws and regulations.
Improvements and modification methods
Let's review and list the areas for improvement.
- I don't like the shape of the hop-up window on the inner barrel.
- The initial velocity is slightly underwhelming (it's a bit lower compared to the prototype review).
- I'm worried about the strength of the recoil spring rod.
Improved trigger feel
- Hammer durability
Magazine gas route packing
Regarding the initial velocity, I think it's sufficient for use as a simple handgun, but since this product might be used like a long gun with a carbine kit, I'll increase it a bit.
We decided on the following method to renovate this area.
- I don't like the shape of the hop-up window on the inner barrel →インナーバレル交換
- The initial velocity is slightly underwhelming (slightly lower compared to the prototype review) →I'll figure out the method as I go; the goal is 83-85 m/s with a 0.2g BB and proper hop-up.
- I'm worried about the strength of the recoil spring rod.Reassemble carefully
・Improved trigger feel →Trigger or frame modification
- Hammer durability →Hammer spring replacement
- Magazine gas route packing →Reassemble carefully
に 加 え てPolishing and greasing of each sliding part improves operability.
Although we've decided on the basic policy, we'll continue to make improvements as we come up with ideas while customizing it.
Now let's actually proceed with the customization.
Chassis assembly, custom
We'll start by assembling the hammer unit.
As of the time of writing (early March 2023), Baton has not yet distributed a replacement for the problematic hammer unit, but it seems that a replacement will be distributed around March or April 2023.
You can ask Mr. Baton to rearrange the hammer for you (though it will probably take some time due to his busy schedule), but I think some people might want to try replacing it themselves, so I'll explain it in a little more detail.
Assembly of the hammer unit
We will now process the frame that will house the hammer unit.
The processing location will be shown in detail in the following photos, but the basic idea is to polish the sliding surfaces of the parts to a high shine.
Hammer unit frame side view.1

Hammer unit frame, side view.2

Hammer unit frame top surface (the inside where the hammer unit fits is also polished here)

We will polish this using a rotary tool.
First, use a coarse whetstone to polish it until the paint comes off.

After that, a buffing pad is used for the finishing touches.

Dremel High-Speed Rotary 4000
This is my go-to rotary tool that I always use. Having this expands the possibilities of your DIY projects. There are two popular models, the 3000 and the 4000, but I recommend the 4000 because it comes with a set of tools and has more power.
This is a photo of the hammer unit after polishing.
Hammer unit frame, side view. 1, after polishing.

Hammer unit frame, side view. 2, after polishing.

Hammer unit frame, top surface after polishing (the orientation is different from the photo above)

I'll try sliding this polished frame through the slide to check how it feels.

If it moves smoothly here, then it's OK.
Next, we'll assemble the hammer.
The parts needed for the first step are shown in the following picture.

These parts are also lightly polished with a buffing wheel before assembly.
At this point, I considered replacing the hammer spring as a solution to the hammer unit's damage, but upon inspecting the hammer, I didn't see any signs of it breaking, so I decided to use the original spring (another reason being that even if it did break, a replacement part would be distributed soon).
Before assembling, apply Bellhammer No. 2 Gold Grease to these moving parts.
Bellhammer No. 2 Gold Grease
This is a classic, top-quality grease. No. 2 has the same ingredients as No. 0 but with a higher viscosity. I primarily use it for metal-to-metal connections.
Now that the preliminary preparations are complete, let's assemble the hammer unit.
To make the hammer assembly process easier to understand, we'll do a preliminary assembly.

As a precaution
- Insert the knocker between the legs of the hammer.
- Check the position of the hammer spring
- Check the position of the roller?
.
Assemble the hammer unit into the frame so that it is in this state.

Instead of using pins directly in this assembly, it's easier to use a pin punch like the one in the picture above.
Signet Pin Punch Set
It's not a luxury brand, but it's a recommended mid-range brand in the automotive industry that offers good value for money. Plus, it's inexpensive.
With the hammer temporarily assembled, use this pin punch to insert the pin into the insertion slot.

Continue removing the punch while hammering in the pin.
If assembled correctly, it will look like the following picture.
Rear

側面

Next, we'll assemble the remaining parts of the hammer unit.
These are the remaining parts.

For this part as well, the sliding parts will be polished with a buffing wheel and then coated with Bellhammer Gold Grease No. 2.
Next, we will place the parts.

With the pin in this position, insert the sear SPG and apply it to the knocker.

If all goes well, it will assemble like the following picture.

All that's left is to assemble the remaining knocker lock and knocker lock spring (before assembly, buff and apply No. 2 grease).

The hammer unit is now complete.
Trigger adjustment
Next, we'll address the issue of the trigger feeling being sticky or catching.

First, we'll do a test assembly to find the cause.

The cause was that the safety was not fully disengaging when the trigger was pulled, causing it to interfere with the frame.
There are mainly two ways to solve this.
1. File down the safety part of the trigger.
2. Shave down the frame.
I think it's one of those two options.
I tried modifying the safety here, and while the trigger feel improved, the trigger safety stopped working (it was a failure, so I ordered a genuine replacement part).
Therefore, I will introduce a method for filing down frame number 2.
The area to be filed is shown in the following photo.

Carefully file this area down in very small amounts using a flat file (be careful not to overdo it, as this will disable the safety mechanism).

After filing, temporarily reassemble the parts, check the feel and safety functions, and if there are no problems, you're done.
Diamond file set
These diamond files offer great value for money. The round files, in particular, are very useful. The 5-piece set is highly recommended.
Next, we'll polish the sliding part of the trigger bar. The polishing method is the same as before: rough processing with a grinding wheel on a rotary tool, followed by finishing with a buffing wheel.
Contact area with shear

Contact area with the frame

Before assembly, apply Bellhammer Grease No. 2 to the contact points with the sear and Bellhammer Grease No. 0 to the contact points with the frame.
Bellhammer No. 0 Gold Grease
This is a classic, top-quality grease. No. 0 is a low-viscosity grease. I generally use No. 0 for resin-to-resistance and resin-to-metal connections.
The trigger adjustment is now complete.
Front chassis section
Next, we'll finish the front internal frame section.
The components are as follows:

We will now polish the sliding parts of the front chassis.
The area to be polished is located at the position shown in the following photo.
Front internal frame, side (both sides will be processed)

Front chassis top view

The polishing method involves rough machining with a grinding wheel on a rotary tool, as described above, followed by finishing with a buffing wheel.
Front internal frame, side view after polishing.

Front internal frame after top surface polishing

We'll temporarily assemble this into a slide and check its movement.

If it moves smoothly, then it's done.
Frame assembly
Now that the preparation is done, I'll assemble the frame and finish it.
First, we'll assemble the trigger and hammer unit.

The correct order is to install the trigger assembly first, then the hammer unit. Apply grease to the moving and sliding parts at this stage (use No. 2 for metal-to-metal connections, and No. 0 for metal-to-plastic and plastic-to-plastic connections).
When inserting pins, it's helpful to use a pin punch and a work block.
Eagle Force Maintenance Bench Block for Handguns
It's incredibly convenient to have. Moreover, it's designed for handguns but can also handle longer firearms, making it very useful. In fact, I personally didn't see the need for their M4 version.
Next, install the spring into the slide stop.

Install this into the trigger and assemble the front internal frame.

All that's left is to assemble the remaining parts around the takedown lever, and then it's finished.
This assembly process is easier to understand if you refer to the chassis disassembly section, so please click the link if you want to know more details.

Once completed, check the operation of each moving part, and if there are no problems, the process is finished.
Summary

I've finished assembling the frame for now. I checked the operation of each part and it worked smoothly, so I think it was a success. The trigger feel, which was the problem, has also been improved.
As a precaution when modifying the trigger feel, I recommend making only slight modifications to the frame rather than modifying the trigger itself (I strongly believe it's better if the safety remains functional).
The much-discussed hammer seems fine on my unit, so although I had prepared a Glock 150% larger hammer spring beforehand, I didn't end up using it. However, I've carefully explained the procedure so that it can be helpful for those who are planning to replace the spring or hammer.
My overall impression of the customization was that it was a standard mechanism with no particularly unusual features, so it wasn't too difficult. I just carefully polished and assembled it, and it was done.
Next time, we'll customize the slide and magazine to complete it.

There's an article about the gas blowback mechanism and chassis, so please take a look if you're interested. The article's content and the structure of this Glock product are quite similar, so it will be easier to understand if you read it while looking at the product in front of you.

Thank you for your time.
Baton BG-17 CO2 GBB (Glock 17 GEN.5 MOS)
If you buy it online, it's hard to tell before and after the hammer incident. With Amazon, you'll be taken directly to Baton, so you might want to contact them and confirm.
Baton BG-17 Spare Magazine
This magazine seemed like it would be quite durable.
・Baton (PUFF DINO) CO2 12g cartridge
These are genuine gas canisters. The manufacturer is Puff Dino, but Baton is the authorized distributor and treats them as genuine. It seems that only these canisters are eligible for the 3-month warranty. You can choose between packs of 6 or 50.
Marushin CO2 12g cartridge
I think Marushin offers the best balance of price and quality. You can choose between a set of 5 or 30. However, you will no longer be eligible for Baton's 3-month warranty.












Comment:
Comment list (2)
Thanks to your detailed explanation, I was able to put the slide lever spring back together, which I had disassembled and couldn't reassemble. Thank you very much.
thank you for your comment.
I'm glad I could be of help.