Last timeACTION ARMY AAP-01 Assassin Review and Current StatusNow that we've completed that, we'll proceed with disassembly.
We'll start with a standard disassembly and field strip.
Standard disassembly field strip
First, we'll perform a field strip, which is considered within the scope of normal disassembly. Since it's a handgun without a slide, the disassembly method is similar to that of a rifle.
Press the button located below the bolt on the back of the unit.
While pressing this button, remove the upper by rotating it as shown in the picture.
Now you can separate it into the upper and lower parts.
Let's take a look at the upper part, where the blowback engine is located.
This is the bolt side. Full auto selector lever.
Interestingly, unlike typical gas blowback pistols, it lacks a slide, so the hop-up chamber, including the inner barrel, is fixed to the upper frame. This structure means the barrel is fixed in place and doesn't move, which should result in significantly higher accuracy.
Next is the lower side.
It has a standard internal hammer mechanism, but it also has a full-auto sear because it has a full-auto function. Rumor has it that it has almost the same structure as a certain company's Glock 18C, but I don't own one so I can't say for sure.
We will continue the disassembly.
Disassembly of the upper part
When disassembling the upper receiver, it seems like it doesn't matter whether you remove the bolt or the hop-up chamber first, but we'll start by removing the hop-up chamber.
Disassembly of the hop chamber
Remove the hexagonal bolt at the base of the outer barrel.
Remove the outer barrel while holding it sideways.
This allows you to remove the hop-up chamber as an integrated part of the outer barrel.
Now, let's check the amount of hops, which I was curious about last time.
My method involves preparing a maintenance rod with a BB attached to the end with adhesive (the same tool used to measure hop-up). I then insert and remove the rod while changing the hop-up setting to check the amount of force required.
It's just my feeling, but overall, the hops seem a bit weak.
GAW Nozzle Length Checking Jig, Split Type
I apologize to the manufacturers, but I think making it myself is more cost-effective.
Next, remove the hop-up chamber from the outer barrel. There are hexagonal bolts on both sides of the outer barrel, so remove them.
By removing the hex bolt, you can remove the hop-up chamber and inner barrel.
Next, we will disassemble the hop chamber.
The hop-up chamber is held in place by four Phillips head screws, so remove them.
There's one spot that's inaccessible with a screwdriver, so you need to adjust the position of the notch on the hop dial to remove it.
This is the disassembled hop chamber.
The chamber is secured with four bolts, which seems to provide a good seal. If the chamber's fastening force is weak, it can open due to the rebound force of the hop-up packing, so I think this is a good design.
The material is probably die-cast zinc alloy.
The inner barrel was made of aluminum, and the hop-up window was the wide type. Upon inspection of the window area, no burrs or sharp edges were visible.
Next, we'll disassemble the bolt assembly and the blowback engine.
Bolt disassembly
Remove the rear sight to remove the bolt.
If you remove the rear sight, you'll see that it's designed to hold down the return spring rod.
Now the bolt can be removed. I'm holding the return spring with my finger to prevent it from flying off.
Since this bolt is a moving part, let's measure its weight.
At just 103g, it's quite lightweight, which should result in smooth operation. A typical gas blowback slide weighs nearly 200g, so this is considerably lighter.
Next, we will disassemble the bolt.
Bolt and blowback engine disassembly
Remove the return spring. There are no photos of this, but it's easy to remove; just be careful not to lose it.
Now, looking at the bolt from the front, remove the screw on the part that holds the nozzle's return spring in place.
Removing this will give you access to the nozzle.
This is a breech with the nozzle removed. The piston was a D-type.
It seems they determined that this surface area was sufficient because the weight required to trigger the blowback is small.
This is a nozzle.
The nozzle shape appears to be from a previous generation.
This is the back side. It contains a flow valve.
This can be removed by pressing the pin from the side. It's recommended to cover the flow valve with your finger to prevent it from flying off during this process.
The disassembled internal components are shown in the following picture.
Looking at the individual parts, the flow valve doesn't have the anti-rotation feature that's popular these days, and it's similar to the one in Tokyo Marui's Glock 17 Gen3. The flow valve spring was quite strong.
Finally, I disassembled the full-auto selector lever.
Before disassembly
After disassembly
There wasn't anything particularly interesting. I think it's basically a place that doesn't need to be disassembled.
With this, the upper part has been completely disassembled.
If you're interested, I've written an article about the operating principles of gas blowback systems, specifically the slide and bolt, so please take a look.
Reading this will help you understand the role and function of each component. It will also help you understand the impact of component changes on performance when customizing your vehicle.
Disassembly of the lower frame
Next, we will disassemble the remaining lower frame.
To remove the hammer unit, pull out the two pins shown in the picture.
While you can remove the pins with a hex wrench, it's not recommended as it can bend. Using a pin punch is faster and cleaner. A bench block is also helpful.
Signet Pin Punch Set
It's not a luxury brand, but it's a recommended mid-range brand in the automotive industry that offers good value for money. Plus, it's inexpensive.
Eagle Force Maintenance Bench Block for Handguns
It's incredibly convenient to have. Moreover, it's designed for handguns but can also handle longer firearms, making it very useful. In fact, I personally didn't see the need for their M4 version.
Vessel Plastic Hammer
It's inexpensive, sturdy, and long-lasting. For a good balance of control and power, the 1-pound size is recommended.
Once the pin is removed, take out the hammer unit.
Removing the hammer unit requires a bit of technique; just like with the field strip, you need to press the button on the back while lifting it up.
Let's take a look at the removed hammer unit.
Knocker return side
The sheer side on the opposite side
Let's take a look from above.
Let's take a look from below.
Let's take a look from the front.
It had almost the same internal hammer mechanism as a gas blowback pistol from a major domestic manufacturer. My impression was that there was surprisingly little grease applied.
This adjustment won't involve any modifications to the hammer mechanism, so we'll stop disassembling it here.
This is the last remaining lower frame.
There's nothing particularly noteworthy, but the trigger bar is made rather thick, so it seems to have good rigidity and a nice trigger feel.
I'll stop the disassembly here. I probably won't have another opportunity to disassemble it any further.
If you're interested, I've written an article about the operating principles of gas blowback guns, specifically focusing on the magazine and hammer, so please take a look.
Reading this will help you understand the role and operation of each component. It will also help you understand the impact of component changes on performance when customizing your system.
Summary and direction for customization
Overall, it was very well made, and I didn't notice any significant manufacturing defects.
Also, although no grease is applied at all, the clearances between each part are made quite wide, giving the impression that it operates smoothly.
Furthermore, by making the most of the advantages of an original design that disregards realism, the barrel is fixed, the chamber structure and moving parts for blowback are minimized, resulting in an astonishingly light weight of 103g.
The only drawback is that the hop-up settings aren't suited to Japan, so I think it would work well if you adjust the hop-up system, grease it up to make it operate more smoothly, and reassemble it.
SoWe'll adjust it in the next customization section.
Please come along if you like.
・ACTION ARMY AAP-01 Assassin Black
It looks like it would be quite interesting as a base for exterior and interior customization. Surprisingly, it was in stock at a reasonable price.
Incidentally, the only difference between the overseas version and the Japanese version is the gas injection valve on the magazine.
・ACTION ARMY AAP-01 Assassin DE
I personally like this color.
·magazine
This test revealed that Tokyo Marui's Glock magazines cannot be used as is, so it's probably safer to just buy the genuine article.
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