In the previous article, we explained the disassembly and mechanism of the Tokyo Marui SAA.45 Artillery.
This time, we'll review and organize the points that caught our attention last time, and then proceed with the actual work.
*This article aims to provide educational explanations from a mechanical engineering perspective regarding the safe hobby use of airsoft guns.
This does not promote acts of violence, the use of weapons, weapon modification, practical evaluation, or violation of laws and regulations.
Review of points of concern and areas for improvement
The points that caught my attention last time are as follows:
- Improving initial velocity is structurally difficult.
- The grease application is insufficient, resulting in some parts being stiff.
While it seems possible to improve the initial velocity by changing the barrel, I think the main feature of this model is its gimmick rather than its ability to increase range, so I'll leave it as is.
I plan to address the stiffness in the movement of each part by reapplying grease. I will use my usual Bell Hammer Gold Grease to further improve its operation.
Bellhammer No. 0 Gold Grease
This is a classic, top-quality grease. No. 0 is a low-viscosity grease. I generally use No. 0 for resin-to-resistance and resin-to-metal connections.
In addition to the two points mentioned above, the paint finish is a matte black color that doesn't give off a metallic feel, so we will polish the surface to bring out the shine.
Structurally, improving the initial velocity is difficult → Leave it as is
Some parts were stiff due to insufficient grease application → Reapplied with Bellhammer grease.
Change the surface texture → polish
Let's build it based on this.
Surface polishing
To give the entire paint job a metallic look, we'll polish the surface.
Ideally, it would be better to paint it to ensure a thicker paint layer before sanding to avoid exposing the base coat, but since that's too much trouble, I'll just sand it without painting it.
The tools I'll be using for polishing are WAKOS metal compound and a cloth.
・WAKOS Metal Compound
A standard polishing tool.
・Cleaning cloth
Any cloth, like the kind used for cleaning glasses, should work.
Since the paintwork remains unchanged this time, I'll just put a little bit of metal polish on a cleaning cloth and polish it thoroughly.
Polished parts will have a shine like the one shown in the photo below.
Once you've finished polishing, wipe off the metal compound with a cleaning cloth that doesn't have any on it.
What do you think? I think it looks a bit more metallic now.
Before polishing
Be careful not to over-polish, as this can expose the underlying surface.
Once all the exterior parts have been polished in this way, the job is complete.
By the way, the dummy cartridges have a thin paint job, and if you sand them down, the underlying skin tone will show through immediately, so I think it's best to avoid using them (they have a sufficiently good texture as they are).
Assembly of the hammer and trigger unit
We will now assemble the hammer. Please refer to the disassembly section for the tools you will need.
The parts to be used are as follows:
Apply grease to the sliding parts of the hammer.
Place the arm on the hammer.
This hammer is then assembled into the inner frame.
Turn the assembled inner frame over, apply grease to the hammer pin, and assemble it. Note that the pin should be inserted from the side shown in the diagram below.
Please note that the orientation of the pins is also fixed.
Turn the inner frame over again and apply grease to the area shown in the diagram below.
Next, we'll assemble the trigger assembly. The parts we'll be using are as follows:
First, apply grease to the part that locks the cylinder.
The part that locks the cylinder is assembled into the inner frame.
Apply grease to the pin and insert it.
Next, apply grease to the trigger. Apply grease to the sliding parts (I forgot to take a picture, so there is no image).
Assemble the trigger pin. Make sure to apply grease to the trigger pin as well.
Assemble the trigger and insert the pin. The direction in which the pin is inserted is fixed, but due to the structure, the correct insertion direction is determined by looking at it.
Finally, install the trigger spring and the trigger unit assembly is complete.
This is the assembled state.
At this point, it's recommended to check the movement of each part and make sure you haven't forgotten to apply grease to any sliding parts, as you can apply it through the gaps between the parts.
Frame assembly
We will now install the assembled inner chassis into the frame.
Be careful when assembling, as the spring can easily come loose.
If assembled correctly, it will look like the picture below, so apply some grease.
Next, we'll assemble the arm that will operate the air outlet.
Assemble the upper part carefully, making sure the spring doesn't fly off.
Next, assemble the side panels to prevent the springs from flying off. Then, apply grease to the moving parts to improve the air cylinder's movement and assemble the link rods.
From here, the frame will be complete once the remaining exterior parts are assembled.
Attach the left grip and air cylinder cover, then tighten the screws in the following locations (be careful not to forget to tighten the screws on the side panel).
Attach the trigger guard and tighten the screw shown in the picture below.
All you have to do is tighten the grub screw at the top of the frame, which is often overlooked.
Attach the right-hand grip during the ritual to complete the frame.
Assembly around the barrel
First, we'll install the hop-up packing into the inner barrel.
Before assembling the hop-up packing, apply silicone grease as shown in the picture below to improve the seal as a precaution.
AZ Silicone Grease
This is a standard product from AZ. While Tokyo Marui's genuine grease is sufficient, the quantity is small, so AZ is recommended. It's also inexpensive.
Carefully assemble the hop packing.
Assemble the hop chamber.
Assembling the remaining parts completes the hop-up chamber and inner barrel.
Here, we adjust the amount of hops and check how much of a bump appears and in what direction.
This completes the assembly of the hop-up mechanism.
The installation method is the same even when changing the inner barrel, so please use this as a reference. Personally, I think the barrel from Freedom Art looks good and seems like it will increase the muzzle velocity.
Freedom Art Accubarrel for Tokyo Marui SAA
The original length was 65mm, but this one is 100mm, and the material has been changed from aluminum to brass. The initial velocity seems to improve from around 1m/s out of the box with 0.12g BBs to over 47m/s.
Assemble the completed barrel into the frame.
Next, we'll assemble the outer barrel.
Assemble the cylinder.
The cylinder shaft is secured by screwing it in place.
Finally, assemble the ejection rod and you're done.
Complete
This custom modification improves operability but offers little performance improvement; the main focus is on changing the appearance, so let's skip the initial velocity measurement and just take a look at the external features.
Left side
Before customization
right side
Before customization
Above
Before customization
The finish has changed from a matte black color straight out of the box to a much glossier, more luxurious look, giving it the feel of a high-end revolver.
Summary
This time, I introduced a custom modification that prioritizes aesthetics while improving functionality.
The key point this time is that we were able to improve the appearance quite a bit despite skipping the troublesome painting process. In terms of cost, it only costs the price of metal compound (or cloth if you don't have one).
It does take quite a bit of time, but as you polish it, it gradually becomes shiny and enjoyable, so I don't think you'll find it too much of a chore.
Setting aside some uninterrupted time to polish it slowly while enjoying a drink can be quite an enjoyable experience. However, I don't recommend disassembling and reassembling it while drinking, as this could lead to mistakes, lost parts, or, in the worst case, injury.
To further enhance the feel, I think you'll enjoy it even more if you change the grip (or try painting the grip).
In terms of performance, it hasn't improved since it's just a matter of greasing and careful assembly, but the operability has definitely improved. In particular, the cylinder lock part and the initial movement of the hammer have improved, making it much easier to half-cock the cylinder to allow it to rotate freely.
I didn't address increasing the initial velocity this time, but it will increase if you install the barrel introduced in the article (you can install it by referring to this article).
Since this is a product for ages 10 and up, I think it's a cost-effective way to enjoy customizing it by enhancing the texture and quality, rather than trying to force performance improvements.
That concludes our introduction to the custom Tokyo Marui SAA.45 Artillery.
Tokyo Marui SAA.45 Artillery- 5.5 inches
This is the model I reviewed. You can also choose silver at the link provided.
Tokyo Marui SAA.45 Cartridge
I think adding an extra set beyond what's included will make reloading even more fun.
Tokyo Marui SAA .45 Cavalry 7.5-inch Custom
The 7.5-inch Cavalry model is a custom edition and is a bit more expensive.
Tokyo Marui SAA .45 Civilian 4.75 inch
The 4.75-inch civilian model is available in black and silver. The grip has a wood grain finish.
I've also written other airsoft gun reviews, so please feel free to check them out if you're interested.
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