Last time, I wrote about the disassembly and mechanism explanation of the slide part of the Tokyo Marui Colt M1911 Government [HG/Hop-Up] airsoft pistol.

This time, we will explain the disassembly and mechanism of the remaining parts: the frame and chassis.
As with the previous example, I believe this product's mechanism is remarkably simple yet fully functional, making it an excellent mechanism, so I'd like to explain it with great enthusiasm.
The mechanism of this product is almost identical to the trigger assembly of most air-cocking bolt-action shotguns and other airsoft guns from other manufacturers, so it should be a useful reference (simple trigger, sear, and hammer system).
I especially recommend understanding the mechanism if you want to do repairs or customizations yourself, as understanding the mechanism will naturally help you figure out the direction and method.
We will now disassemble the frame and chassis.
*This article aims to provide educational explanations from a mechanical engineering perspective regarding the safe hobby use of airsoft guns.
This does not promote acts of violence, the use of weapons, weapon modification, practical evaluation, or violation of laws and regulations.
Disassembly of the frame and chassis
First, remove the two screws shown in the picture to remove the grip.

Once you remove the screws, the grip and weight will come out.

Remove the other side in the same way.
Since I had the opportunity, I decided to measure the weight of the sinker.

Since it weighs 56g, the total weight with two weights on each side is 112g.
I was curious about the indentation near the center of the weight's shape, so I thought about it, but structurally I don't think it's related to this product. The reason for the indentation is probably that it was designed to be used in models of the M1911 series that had a medal slot in the grip (there used to be models with a medal slot in the grip, although they are not currently in the lineup).
If you want to make it a little heavier, you can fill the dents with fishing weights or metal putty, which should make it slightly heavier.
Next, we will remove the thumb safety.
This is the thumb safety in its normal state (unlocked).

From this position, raise the thumb safety to lock it in place.

We'll raise it even further from the safety-engaged position (next, move it to the position shown in the photo).

Once the safety is raised to this position, it can be removed as shown in the next picture.

Now you can remove the thumb safety.
Next, you'll see two Phillips head screws on the main unit, so first remove only the lower screw in the position shown in the photo.

After removing the screws, slide the grip's backstrap (the part with the lanyard ring) downwards to remove it, as shown in the picture.

In this state, when you look at the main unit from the back, you can see the leaf spring and grip safety, which are important components.

These parts are not fixed at this stage, so you can remove them as they are (they will probably come off on their own, so be careful not to lose them).
Incidentally, the arrangement of the parts is as shown in the following picture.

Next, remove the remaining screw from the main unit.

Once you remove the screws, the main body is a clamshell structure made up of two halves glued together, so carefully pull them apart to disassemble it.
This is the only step that requires a little extra care. I recommend applying pressure gradually, being careful not to damage the parts by using too much force, or to lose any internal components.

If you disassemble it properly, you can take it apart with the internal components still in their original positions, as shown in the following picture.

The photo above can be used as a reference for the arrangement of parts if they become disassembled.
All the internal components are not fixed in place and can be easily removed.
This completes the disassembly.
For reference, I've included a photo showing the frame and chassis parts arranged as closely as possible to their original configuration (I forgot to include the frame and magazine catch).

Disassembly isn't that difficult, and you only need a Phillips head screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver, so I think it's easy.
Next, let's look at the mechanism.
Frame and chassis mechanism
Before delving into the intricate mechanisms, let's consider the general roles that the frame and chassis play.
If possible, I'd like you to also look at the mechanism of the slide from last time, but the roles required of the frame and chassis can be broadly divided into the following two points.

- Fix the piston in place at the appropriate time.
Piston locking (end of slide pull)

- When the trigger is pulled, the piston lock is released.
Pull the trigger to release the piston (fire).

In other words, the only function of the slide moving from the frame is to lock and release the piston of the red part shown in the photo (the hammer in this product).
Next, let's look at the hammer, which is the part that holds the piston in place.
Hammer (part that secures the piston)
Let's take a look at the hammer right away.

The part labeled "ratchet" (also called "latch") in the photo above has a convex shape that secures the piston. The ratchet part is pressed by a spring and moves in the direction of the arrow in the photo.
The ratchet mechanism allows the piston to be locked in place at the appropriate time.
If you want the piston to pass through without being locked in place when you pull back the slide, the ratchet will tilt, allowing the piston to pass through without being locked in place.

Next, when the slide returns, the ratchet protrudes and catches on the convex part of the piston, locking the piston in place.

This ratchet mechanism allows the movable part (piston) to move in one direction, thereby achieving the correct timing for fixing the piston in place.
This kind of mechanism is a fundamental part of machinery and is used in almost all machine parts around us (from ballpoint pens and staplers to cars and rockets, etc.).
Next, let's broaden our perspective and look at the entire trigger mechanism, including the hammer.
Trigger, sear mechanism
This shows the arrangement of parts around the hammer (in its initial, uncocked state).

Basically, all the parts are held in place by springs (to prevent them from moving around freely).
The trigger and sear are held in place by leaf springs, and the hammer is held in place by a hammer spring.
For reference, here is a video showing only the hammer in action.
Tokyo Marui Airsoft M1911 Hammer Movement Image
Next is an image illustrating the movement of each part as the hammer falls while the slide is being pulled back.

This scene shows the hammer being physically pushed by the piston, and the sear moving in conjunction with the hammer (it moves along the curved surface of the hammer because it is pushed by a leaf spring).
In reality, this product doesn't have the slide knock down the hammer; rather, a part of the piston pushes the hammer down, but it's depicted as a slide for aesthetic reasons.
Here, the piston's position is not fixed and it passes through without being fixed.
Next, we'll look at the movement of each part when the slide is fully pulled back and returns, fixing the piston's position.

Here, the movement of the parts is such that the piston is fixed in position by the hammer, and the hammer is held in place by the sear to prevent it from moving.
The key point is that the sear, which holds the piston in place, is held in place by the force of a leaf spring, preventing the hammer from returning to its original position (without the leaf spring, the sear would wobble and the hammer would not be able to be fixed in place).
If the slide returns completely to its original position, the piston will be fixed in place, causing the spring to compress and the device to become ready to fire.
Next, we'll show the movement of each part when the trigger is pulled and the shot is fired, as the piston is released.

The movements can be summarized in the following four points.
① Pull the trigger with more force than the leaf spring.
② The trigger presses the sear, causing it to rotate.
③ The sear moves and the hammer lock is released.
④ The hammer rotates and releases the piston.
The entire sequence of events moves simultaneously, releasing the piston and firing the bullet.
It might be difficult to visualize, but here's a video showing the sequence of movements up to this point.
Tokyo Marui Airsoft M1911 Chassis Mechanics Video
I think the fascinating thing about machines is that they're quite complex even though their actual operation takes less than a few seconds.
Of all the parts used, the one that personally impressed me the most was the leaf spring. It's truly amazing how this single part accomplishes three tasks: determining the trigger load, controlling the sear's movement, and locking the hammer (the real M1911 uses basically the same mechanism; John Browning was a genius).
That concludes the explanation of the basic mechanisms, but since we're on the subject, let's also explain the safety mechanisms.
Grip safety mechanism
The grip safety mechanism is in the "safety on" state, meaning the safety is not pressed and the grip is not being held.

In this state, the protrusion on the grip safety holds the trigger in place, preventing it from moving. The key point here is that the leaf spring again presses against the safety, thereby suppressing the trigger's movement and directly holding down the trigger.
Next is the safety release state, where the grip safety is pressed and the grip is held.

If you press the safety with a force greater than the load of the leaf spring, that is, if you grip the handle with a certain amount of force, the safety will move and the lock on the protruding part that restrains the trigger's movement will be released.
This is how the safety mechanism works.
Incidentally, M1911s used in shooter-type weapons often omit the grip safety, but if you understand the mechanism I've described so far, you should be able to easily omit it in this product as well (I don't actively recommend it from a safety standpoint, and I think the same applies to Gasbros).
I personally think the layout here, where dry components are used and even the safety control is handled by leaf springs, is amazing.
View of a leaf spring from the side

Front

For mechanical designers, designing a single part to serve multiple functions is a crucial element that tests one's intuition, and John Browning, who managed to give such a compact leaf spring at least four or five functions, can only be described as a genius (leaf springs are also difficult to design).
Next, let's look at the thumb safety mechanism.
Thumb safety mechanism
The thumb safety is off, as shown in the next picture.

If we pick out only the parts necessary to explain the function in this state, it will look like this:

The key point here is that the sear is not locked, meaning the sear can move, and therefore the trigger can also move.
Next, the thumb safety is ON, as shown in the following picture.

Similar to the OFF state, we will pick out the necessary components for the ON state.

The thumb safety is physically raised, and the protruding part of the safety locks the sear in place.
In other words, since the sear cannot move, the trigger naturally cannot move either.
What I found impressive about John Browning's mechanism so far is that it incorporates two safety features: a grip safety to restrict trigger movement and a thumb safety to restrict sear movement.
In other words, the failure of one safety measure reduces the risk that the entire system will be exposed to danger (this increases the statistical risk exponentially).
Incorporating multiple safety measures into any machine (from cars to rockets, everything) is extremely important and a very difficult task, but it has been successfully achieved (I personally struggled with this a lot during my time designing engines).
A famous example of a similar mechanism that prevented an accident midway through is Apollo 13 (a prime example of what not to do is the Fukushima nuclear disaster).
In today's digital age, machines and analog systems don't receive much attention, but I believe that ultimately, safety is guaranteed by analog, multi-system safety measures like those in this product (I've strayed too far from the topic).
The Glock, a prime example of a striker-fired pistol, also boasts an impressive design with multiple safety mechanisms (I'd love to explain it if there's an airsoft gun that faithfully replicates the mechanics; I'm hoping GHK will make one).
That concludes the explanation of the mechanism.
If you're interested in machine safety, I've written about the Comet jet crash, one of the most important accidents in human history regarding the development and safety of machinery, so please do read it.
Summary

This time, we explained how to disassemble the frame and chassis of an airsoft gun and the basic firing mechanism.
Disassembly is relatively easy because the original parts are inexpensive and the only tools needed are a Phillips head screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver. Personally, I think splitting the frame in half requires a bit of skill, but everything else is easy, making it suitable for repairs and customization.
Also, regarding the mechanism, just like the slide, I think it's packed with the fundamentals of airsoft guns other than gas guns, so if you're interested, disassembling it while thinking about it will make it easier to understand and more enjoyable.
Furthermore, unlike slides, the mechanism closely resembles that of a real M1911, making it a perfect subject for learning the basics of mechanics (it's inexpensive, and it covers fundamental mechanical principles like levers, ratchet mechanisms, leaf springs, and linkages). I think it would be excellent for the initial education of mechanical engineering students (is that ethically wrong?).
Finally, when customizing airsoft guns, not just spring-powered ones, understanding the mechanism makes it easier to predict which parts to replace and what the results will be depending on how you modify them. I highly recommend it.
Next time, while we're at it, we'll do some simple customizations.

Thank you for your time.
Tokyo Marui Colt M1911 Government [HG/Hop-Up] Air Cocking Gun
I believe this is the ultimate product, the origin of both airsoft guns and real automatic handguns. I highly recommend it.
Special Magazine
Since it's an air-cocking gun with a 25-round magazine, I don't think it's really necessary, but I'll include it just in case (it might be useful to have one or two).
As of this writing, it appears that Amazon, Rakuten, and Yahoo! Shopping are all out of stock, but I think it will become available again once they start production again.




Comment:
Comment list (10)
I'd like to hear Kazubara-san's opinion on the hammer in this product.
Compared to the company's gas blowback models and real firearms, this one is about 2mm narrower in width. Is this because it was unavoidable in order to incorporate the air cocking mechanism?
Is it impossible to reproduce the actual size of a hammer in an airsoft gun without distorting the appearance of other parts?
I can't help but feel that they cut corners when sculpting the hammer, and it's incredibly frustrating.
Hanma Usumi-sama
Thank you for your comment. I apologize for the delay in my response.
In my opinion, the difference in hammer shape is not due to the air cocking mechanism. The company's 10+ rated 1911 and Crown's models have a much better shape, even if it's not exactly realistic.
So, as you said, the design of the hammer is disappointing. Also, even if you wanted to customize it, the lack of aftermarket hammer parts and the fact that it would require a major overhaul makes it seem like it would be very difficult to even attempt, which is a shame.
I'd like to hear Kazubara-san's opinion on the hammer in this product.
Compared to the company's gas blowback models and real firearms, this one is about 2mm thinner when viewed from the side. Is this because the hammer has been deformed in this way, as it is necessary to incorporate the air cocking mechanism?
Furthermore, is it impossible to reproduce the actual size of the hammer without compromising the appearance of other parts using an air cocking mechanism?
I can't help but feel like they've cut corners when it comes to recreating the hammer, and it's quite frustrating.
Hanma Usumi-sama
Thank you for your comment. I apologize for the delay in my response.
In my opinion, the difference in hammer shape is not due to the air cocking mechanism. The company's 10+ rated 1911 and Crown's models have a much better shape, even if it's not exactly realistic.
So, as you said, the design of the hammer is disappointing. Also, even if you wanted to customize it, the lack of aftermarket hammer parts and the fact that it would require a major overhaul makes it seem like it would be very difficult to even attempt, which is a shame.
I was having trouble with a malfunction after disassembling an 18+ airsoft Government model, but after reading this article, I was able to fix it successfully. Thank you very much for the helpful information! 😊
HitMetorugidu
Thank you for your comment, and I apologize for the late reply.
We plan to expand our airsoft gun series in the future, so please look forward to it.
Airsoft guns are great because they don't require gas or electricity. However, this particular product has plastic parts like the hammer, safety, and backstrap, which makes it feel quite lightweight. I'd like to install parts from a Tokyo Marui M1911A1 gas blowback gun if possible, but are they compatible?
Mr. Ono
thank you for your comment.
I think airsoft guns are quite good products because they are affordable, easy to play with, and have a good price tag.
I don't think there's any parts compatibility between the gas blowback and air cocking versions of the Marui 1911. Unfortunately, this is unavoidable because their structures are completely different.
Nice to meet you, Kazubara-san.
I was looking at your blog and was wondering, is it compatible with the Crown 1911?
mr.sato
Thank you for your comment, and I apologize for the late reply.
I don't own a Crown 1911, but since they're made by different manufacturers, I don't think they're basically compatible.
We hope for your reference.