Continuation of the previous reviewSo let's get started with the disassembly.

I'm not very familiar with disassembling AK-type rifles, so please understand that the order of steps might be a bit mixed up.
*This article aims to provide educational explanations from a mechanical engineering perspective regarding the safe hobby use of airsoft guns.
This does not promote acts of violence, the use of weapons, weapon modification, practical evaluation, or violation of laws and regulations.
Disassembly of the exterior
First, remove the top cover.
Just press the button at the rear of the receiver to remove the cover. It's incredibly stiff.


The top cover is quite thick for a pressed product, and there are no wrinkles or cracks, which suggests that this company has considerable technical skill. Pressing out something of this size so cleanly requires a very high level of production technology.
Next, remove the upper part of the handguard.
To do this, lift the lever on the side of the sight and lightly tap the handguard. It's still stiff.

This is the removed handguard.

Let's change the orientation of the handguard and take a look.

In reality, there should be a pushrod inside this handguard tube, but since it's electric, it's not there.
However, LCT sells a charging handle assembly with a dummy rod as an official option, so I think I'll buy it when I have some extra money.
Next, remove the inner and outer barrels.
The inner barrel is secured by the two bolts shown in the picture, and the outer barrel by the two grub screws shown in the picture, so remove them.

Next, remove the two grub screws shown in the photo below.

To be honest, removing this grub screw is quite a pain.
Only small tools can fit inside, so you have no choice but to remove it little by little.
I later figured out the trick: first, remove the leaf spring of the tangent sight and use a long hex wrench to easily access the grub screw. Once the sight is removed, you can easily access the grub screw further inside.
To remove the sight, flip the tangent sight over, remove it, and then remove the leaf spring.


Once you remove it, there's a grub screw behind the leaf spring, so remove that too. (I only realized this later.)

Now you can finally remove the outer barrel. However, the lower handguard is firmly fixed, so you'll need to tap it gently while removing it.

Next, pull the outer barrel forward.

When that happens, the inner barrel will also come out with it.
Next, we'll prepare to remove the gearbox. First, remove the charging handle. Remove the grub screw shown in the picture and push the charging handle rod forward to remove it.

Next, pull the charging handle towards the stock and pry it a little to remove it.


The charging handle is cast (obviously). It used to be a two-piece pressed metal part, but it seems they've changed it to a single cast piece.
Next, remove the bolt holding the selector in place. It's incredibly tight. I couldn't even do it with regular pliers, so I used electrical pliers to grip it. At first, I was using a cloth to protect it from scratches, but I got so frustrated by how difficult it was to remove that I just grabbed it directly with the electrical pliers. It's seriously impossible.

Next, remove the grip. It's held in place by a single slotted screw at the bottom.

Next, carefully remove the gearbox, paying attention to the wiring.
The wiring cannot be directly disconnected from the stock connector; it's connected with crimp connectors, so after pulling the wires a certain distance, you need to disconnect the crimp connectors.
Also, since the selector's structure is connected by gears, I recommend taking a note or photo of the relative positions of the gears before they fall out while you're removing it.

The gearbox has been removed while the gun is in semi-automatic mode.

Carefully remove the gearbox while maintaining the selector switch position.

On the opposite side, you can see the selector plate.

The position of the selector switch on this gearbox and the position of the gear connected to the selector switch on the main unit are important. Please refer to this if you get confused (semi-automatic with the selector switch in its lowest position).
Now the gearbox can be removed.


Inner barrel and chamber
Let's take a look at the inner barrel area.
First, let's look at the hop level. The photo on the left shows hop level 0, and the photo on the right shows hop level at full blast.


This is a standard Tokyo Marui genuine type hop-up, not a special shape like a long-range or bifurcated packing.
Next is the tip of the inner barrel.

There's no special tapering or anything like that; the tip is just cut and has a slight burr. VFC and KRYTAC seem to put more effort into this kind of processing. Although, I'm not sure how much that affects performance.
According to the catalog, the inner barrel is quite long, at around 420mm.
Let's take a break here, and next time we'll take a look inside the gearbox.
next time,Gearbox Disassembly Guide will be important.

LCT LCK74 AK74 NV AEG
I think this is one of the best electric, wooden-stocked AK74s I've ever seen.



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