Around New Year's this year, I was looking for a submachine gun that would be easy to take to airsoft games by train, and I found a Kriss Vector for just over 5 yen at Fortress's New Year's sale, so I bought it.

I was actually aiming for the VFC MP7 electric airsoft gun, but it's out of stock on the market and seems to have a lot of proprietary parts, so I went with the Vector instead.

Since I have the opportunity, I'll do an unboxing review of the Kriss Vector.

Appearance and out-of-the-box shooting performance

appearance

First, regarding the exterior, many people have already reviewed it, so I'll give a brief overview.

Let's leave the real guns aside for now.

Incidentally, the import batch appears to be from June 2020. Please use this as a reference for the recent quality of KRYTAC Vector.

Reverse

This is a sales certificate from an authorized dealer, issued on June 5, 2020.

Site Picture

Next, site pictures

It's a foldable, two-stage sight.

The adjustable hop-up mechanism is a rotary dial located inside the ejection port cover.

This is a selector switch. It's ambidextrous.

The trekking poles become quite compact when folded.

The exterior appears to be virtually unchanged from the initial production run.

Live-fire performance verification

We will now fire live shots.

The test firing conditions were as follows: HOP set to 0, ET-1 REDLINE 1300mAh LiPo battery in storage mode at 67V, and Tokyo Marui 2g bio BBs.

The initial velocity was 81.57 m/s and the rate of fire was 13.8 rounds/second.

From what I observed, the numbers were similar to those of other individuals.

I took several measurements using cicadas, but the readings were quite inconsistent, ranging from 78 to 85 m/s.

Furthermore, this lot of products includesThe function to release the spring by engaging the safety mechanism was omitted.Furthermore, the semi-automatic firing mechanism wasn't very responsive, and there was a lot of spring and gear noise.

The FET's performance is so good that if you pull the trigger quickly in semi-automatic mode, the power supply is cut off before the bullet is fired, resulting in a whirring sound without any actual firing.

Regarding the trigger stroke, it's said to be heavy and long, but I didn't find it particularly bothersome.

I don't usually worry about this because I customize things right away, but please use it as a reference.

If you're interested, please also check out my review of the chronograph.

break down

Let's start disassembling it.

First, remove the pin indicated by the arrow in the photo.

Shift your gaze downwards and remove the two pins at the bottom.

This is the stock pin. You can do this later, but for now, remove the stock pin.

Once the pin is removed, it can be separated into the upper and lower parts.

I forgot to take a picture of Roar. Sorry.

Next, we will disassemble the lower section.

Signet Pin Punch Set
It's not a luxury brand, but it's a recommended mid-range brand in the automotive industry that offers good value for money. Plus, it's inexpensive.

Eagle Force Maintenance Bench Block for Handguns
It's incredibly convenient to have. Moreover, it's designed for handguns but can also handle longer firearms, making it very useful. In fact, I personally didn't see the need for their M4 version.

Vessel Plastic Hammer
It's inexpensive, sturdy, and long-lasting. For a good balance of control and power, the 1-pound size is recommended.

Lower disassembly

We will now begin disassembling the lower receiver.

First, remove the hexagonal bolt indicated by the arrow in the photo. Also remove the side rail and the bolt release lever assembly in the red circle.

Remove the screw on the other side as well.

We'll also remove the anti-modification pin from Laylax. The bolt is hidden inside the seal, so remove it and then take out the pin.

When you remove the pin, the main spring will come out. Be careful, as it will come out with force.

This is the removed spring.

The spring is of the unequal pitch type and is quite short. I believe this shortness is a major cause of the spring noise during operation.

Also remove the spring-loaded bolt located in front of the charging lever.

Then the cover will pop off.

• Screwdriver set
While cheaper options are fine, for affordable yet high-quality products, I recommend brands like Hazet, Tone, KTC, and Vessel.

Gearbox Disassembly

We will now begin disassembling the gearbox.

First, remove the charging lever. The charging lever is secured by upper and lower plates, so remove the bolts. Don't worry about the cover still being on in the picture; I simply did it in the wrong order.

The bolts on the upper plate are long bolts, and the bolts on the lower plate are short bolts.

Next, remove the barrel. The barrel is held in place by two screws on each side, for a total of four screws, so remove them.

If you remove the bolt, the barrel will come out from the front. By the way, the barrel is firmly attached to the main body and there is no looseness or anything, so I think it's well made.

Next, remove the tappet link plate. This plate is simply held in place by friction, so it's easy to remove.

It's possible that some parts may have come loose during the process up to this point, so please be careful not to lose them.

Next, remove the motor.

The motor holder is secured by two bolts. The motor can be easily removed by unscrewing the bolts and removing the holder.

Please pay attention to the orientation of the motor holder and the combination of bolts (the screw lengths are different on the left and right sides).

This is the motor that was removed.

This motor will have poor response if its rotation speed is too low. It needs to be replaced.

Next, remove the link plate of the switch that detects the rotation of the sector gear.

Remove the two screws on the link plate.

Finally, remove the remaining eight or so bolts (Phillips head screws) from the gearbox, and you should be able to disassemble it. At the same time, remove the internal parts of the gearbox. I only have photos of the disassembled parts. I apologize.

I didn't bother removing the base unit because it seemed too much trouble.

The gearbox is made of solid aluminum and appears to be quite rigid. It's fastened with many bolts (around 8), so the assembly rigidity seems good, and it looks like it could withstand hard tuning.

The bearing was an 8mm radial ball bearing.Apparently, some older rods used metal bushings.

The motor's wiring is 1.25 sq mm thick, which seems to provide good electrical conductivity.

Let's take a look at the internal components.

It's a gear.

All the gears are made of iron and have six bevel latches. Unfortunately, the spur gear shim was the infamous spring shim.

It's a cylinder.

The cylinder is made of brass and the acceleration port is positioned quite far forward. The barrel is short, so the air volume is relatively small. It's a fairly small-capacity acceleration cylinder.

This is a nozzle.

Surprisingly, it wasn't a sealing nozzle. The nozzle was surprisingly made of resin and lacked an O-ring like an air seal. The total length is 21.15mm.

I forgot to take pictures of the other parts, so I'll just mention a few that caught my attention.

The piston is a half-metal type, with several metal teeth on the piston release side. The piston head is a rear-exhaust type with 8 holes, I believe.

The cylinder head was a special part with a rubber piston contact surface and a pipe that was angled. The mounting point to the cylinder had a double O-ring for perfect airtightness.

The tappet components also appear to be quite thick and rigid. The tappet springs were quite strong. This is probably to ensure reliable operation due to the complex tappet structure.

Incidentally, this particular batch did not have a lever-like mechanism for releasing the spur gear.

Overall, the gearbox seems to have some pretty good parts and appears to be of high quality, but it feels like the short main spring and motor, which are specific to the Japanese market, are ruining it.

Taking those points into consideration, I will customize it while using as many genuine parts as possible.

This completes the disassembly of the gearbox.

Disassembly of the upper

Next, we'll disassemble the upper.

First, you need to remove the top rail, but it's stuck on really tightly, so I attach an M4 carrying handle and tap it forward with a plastic hammer.

You can remove the carrier handle by lightly tapping it with a plastic hammer.

Next, remove the ejection port.

It can be removed by unscrewing two hex bolts on the left side of the upper section. I forgot to take a picture.

Next, remove the bolt that was hidden under the top rail.

There is a small screw on the front, so don't forget to remove it.

Next, remove the selector lever and safety lever. Remove the hex bolt.

This will allow the trigger to detach forward.

You can see the trigger pin when viewed from the side.

The trigger is only held in place by a pin, so you can remove it by tapping it with a punch and a plastic hammer.

The trigger spring wasn't a coil spring but a regular coil spring, and it was bent when it was installed. That's disappointing.

That completes the disassembly of the upper.

Chamber section

The chamber comes off when you remove the outer barrel.

The way it securely attaches to the outer barrel is quite nice.

The inner barrel tip has a slight tapered finish and is equipped with an O-ring to prevent wobble.

The hop chamber was a drum type.

The protrusion on the hop packing was of the bifurcated type.

I've now managed to disassemble almost everything.

Summary

Finally, here are my overall impressions.

Given its high price range for an electric airsoft gun, the external quality and the parts used are quite high. The assembly is generally done carefully, but there are some disappointing points here and there.

The design also shows considerable ingenuity, with unique mechanisms and considerations that enhance rigidity.

Furthermore, I was lucky that the spring release mechanism for safety was omitted, as it wasn't something I needed.

In terms of performance, with 0.2g BBs, the muzzle velocity is 81.57 m/s and the rate of fire is 13.8 rounds/second, which isn't bad, but it's not particularly good either. Besides the muzzle velocity and rate of fire, other issues include inconsistent muzzle velocity, poor response despite having a FET, spring noise during operation, and gear noise.

I suspect the problem is caused by the combination of the original motor and the Japanese-spec springs.

In my personal opinion, it's not unusable right out of the box, but it seems like some customization is needed to get the most out of it.

We will customize it based on these points.

Then.Next time: Customization will be important.

KRYTAC Kriss Vector Black
I think it has high potential for customization.

KRYTAC Kriss Vector FDE
色違いです。

・KRYTAC Kriss Vector 2-tone color
I personally like this color.

・Chris Vector 95-round magazine
This is a spring-loaded magazine that holds approximately 96 rounds.

・Chriss Vector 95-round magazine 3-pack
Since there are no dedicated high-capacity magazines available, this is a great deal. With 3 magazines plus 1 (included with the gun), you can carry around 400 rounds in total, which is more than enough for airsoft games.