KRYTAC KRISSVECTOR

It was quite a while ago (3 or 4 months ago) that I finished customizing my KRYTAC KRISSVECTOR.

However, after some time has passed and I've actually used it in airsoft games, I've noticed a few things I'm not happy with, so I'd like to make some adjustments.

I've assembled and disassembled it many times, so I'll share my own simple and efficient method for disassembling and assembling it. Once you get the hang of it, you can disassemble the gearbox in less than 15 minutes.

Now, let me share some of the things I found unsatisfactory about airsoft games.

Dissatisfaction after actual combat

As I briefly mentioned in the final installment of my internal customization series, I played at a regular event at Survival Field Tarf Battle Field in southern Tochigi Prefecture.

The first complaint that arose was that, since some time had passed since the customization, the spring had deteriorated, causing the initial velocity to drop from 90m/s with 0.2g BBs and no hop-up to 88m/s with proper hop-up (around 3.5 out of 15 levels).

While the numbers are sufficient, I felt they were slightly lacking since my main focus is on outdoor activities, so I'm raising them a little.

The second change was to modify the length of the nozzle inside the gearbox from the original 21.1mm to 21.8mm to eliminate the hop-up issue.

However, I made it as long as possible, and while it could feed high-precision BBs like those from Tokyo Marui, with larger, less precise BBs, the feeding became sporadic, sometimes resulting in BBs not being dispensed at all, so I'm going to make some adjustments.

My third and final point is that I'm using the original spring-loaded high-capacity magazine, but with a magazine capacity of 96 rounds, the rate of fire is only 18-19 rounds per second, so I run out of ammo very quickly (even with burst firing, I can't fire for more than 10 seconds).

With full auto, I'd run out of ammo in 5 seconds, and when engaging distant targets, I'd quickly run out, requiring frequent magazine changes, which was annoying (maybe I was shooting too much?).

Therefore, I would like to slightly reduce the cycle while keeping the response time as close to the original as possible.

Summary

We will proceed with this.

First, let's talk about disassembly. I've explained this before, but I've gotten the hang of it a bit, so I'll explain it again in detail.

The basic specifications are the same as in the "Internal Customization Completed" section; please refer to this section for details.

Tips for disassembly

First, when disassembling it, I remove the cover at the bottom of the main unit that contains the spring.

Other side

These two pins support the recoil force of the mainspring, so they won't come out unless you push them with considerable force. Also, the recoil force of the mainspring causes the cover to fly off the moment you pull out the pins unless you hold it down with considerable force, which is quite frustrating.

Therefore, to remove this pin, we will use the pin punch that I will introduce next.

There are about two pins, so you'll need to use two pin punches, and make sure they are 6mm or smaller in diameter, otherwise they won't go through the holes (I use 6mm and 5mm).

I think even cheap tools from a 100-yen store would be fine, but based on my experience working on motorcycles and such, I recommend Signet brand tools, which are reasonably priced and of good quality.

Signet Pin Punch Set
It's not a luxury brand, but it's a recommended mid-range brand in the automotive industry that offers good value for money. Plus, it's inexpensive.

Position the pin punch in the direction the pin will come out, as shown in the following picture (I use a 6mm punch).

In this state, gently tap the pin punch with a plastic hammer while slowly removing the pin.

You can use a plastic hammer from a 100-yen store, but since you'll be using it often, just like a pin punch, I think it's better to get a decent quality one.

I use a Vessel hammer for everything, including working on my motorcycle. I've been using it for over 10 years without any problems.

Vessel Plastic Hammer
It's inexpensive, sturdy, and long-lasting. For a good balance of control and power, the 1-pound size is recommended.

Here's an important point: I think it's best not to hit the punch all at once and pull it out. Tap it gently and little by little so that the pin punch doesn't separate from the pin.

Remove the pins little by little until you reach the state shown in the next picture.

Here, instead of removing the pin punch that's stuck in the pin, use the pin punch in the same way to remove the remaining pin (this time a 5mm pin punch).

This will result in a state like the following picture.

Then, while firmly holding the lid with your hand, remove the pin punch to safely remove the lid and spring.

Next, I remove the side rails. They're attached with hex bolts, so I just remove them normally.

It would be much easier if I could disassemble it with the rail still attached, but that wasn't possible.

Next, and this is a bit of a hassle, remove the dummy bolt release lever. You won't be able to disassemble it later unless you remove this as well. Removing it at this stage will make things easier later on.

Now that we've reached this point, remove the two pins from the upper receiver. These pins should come out easily.

By removing the pin, the receiver can be separated into upper and lower receivers.

Next, we will proceed to disassembling the lower receiver.

Tips for disassembling the lower receiver

Remove the hex bolts from the lower receiver.

These hexagonal bolts are located on both sides. They are the bolts shown in the following photo.

Other side

Even after removing this bolt, the lower receiver cannot be disassembled.

By the way, hex wrenches are less likely to strip the bolt due to the structural characteristics of the bolt, so I use fairly inexpensive tools. I recommend the L-shaped one from Astro Products, which is of a decent length and has a spherical hexagonal end.

Next, here are some points to note:The Phillips screw in the next picture of the bolt handle does not need to be removed.

このIt's recommended to leave the bolt handle as is, as it can be disassembled without removing it.

Next, shift the lower receiver casing and the gearbox body.

You won't be able to move it unless you remove the bolt release lever at this point.

Next, remove the Phillips screw and plate that secure the bolt handle to the gearbox.

These Phillips screws and plates are different sizes and shapes on the top and bottom, so be careful not to mix them up when assembling.

The upper Phillips screw is longer because it also serves to fasten the gearbox.

By the way, I personally use a Snap-on screwdriver set that I received at work a long time ago, and it's incredibly good, but it's expensive, so I generally recommend KTC, Vessel, or Signet.

You can use tools from a 100-yen store, but they tend to strip the bolt heads easily, so I think KTC is a better choice. In my experience, Hazet tools are pretty sturdy despite being inexpensive.

• Screwdriver set
While cheaper options are fine, for affordable yet high-quality products, I recommend brands like Hazet, Tone, KTC, and Vessel.

Next, move the bolt handle to the side. Move it as shown in the picture.

Now you can disassemble the gearbox and lower receiver.

You can easily disassemble it by slightly moving the outer barrel back and forth while removing the gearbox.

This allows you to disassemble the lower receiver and gearbox without removing the bolt handle.

Disassembly of the barrel

Removing the gearbox and outer barrel doesn't require any special techniques, but I'll explain it anyway.

Remove the two bolts that fasten the gearbox to the outer barrel. It's recommended to remove the bolts securing the outer barrel from the rear, as the front bolt is used for positioning.

Other side

Next, you can remove the outer barrel, hop-up chamber, and inner barrel, but just slide the outer barrel forward a little.

Then, the outer barrel, inner barrel, and hop-up chamber can be removed by pushing them downwards.

All that's left is to disassemble the hop chamber.

Since I don't have photos of the disassembled parts, I'll explain using a photo of the chamber assembly.

You can't disassemble the inner barrel, hop-up chamber, and packing without disassembling it this far.

So, if you're only changing the barrel assembly, this is where you'll stop.

Disassembling the gearbox

Disassembling the gearbox is quite simple and there aren't any tricks to explain, but I'll go ahead and explain it anyway.

The following photos show the parts to remove before splitting open the gearbox.

Remove the motor holder assembly. Remember the orientation of the motor holder and the bolts used, as they are specific.

In the photo above, the right side of the gun barrel is facing forward, and the longer arm of the motor holder is the front. The screw with one Phillips head groove going all the way through is also the front.

Carefully remove the Faston terminals from the motor and then remove the motor itself.

Next, remove the cutoff detection plate and the tappet link plate.

Now we're ready to open the gearbox.

Incidentally, this gearbox has a convenient feature: you can grease it even if you don't understand gearboxes. Since the motor and spring have already been removed, the gears can be turned easily, so you can apply grease with a brush while the gears are rotating.

Putting that aside, let's disassemble the gearbox. It's not as complicated as you might think; you can easily open it by removing the screws that hold the gearbox together.

The screw locations are as shown in the photo.

Removing this screw will open the gearbox.

Since there are no springs inside, parts won't fly out, so you can open it without any particular care. The only thing that might be a little stiff is the tappet return spring, which might cause some rattle, but it's nothing serious, so just open it wide.

When you open it, you'll find the following parts inside. It's a little unusual, but the structure is the same as a regular electric airsoft gun.

Now you can completely disassemble the gearbox.

Please refer to this guide for instructions on adjusting and assembling this gearbox.

This time, we only want to change the length of the nozzle, so we'll just take out the nozzle.

Nozzle resetting

The nozzle length I decided on last time, after carefully checking the feeding performance during the customization process, was 21.8mm.

Actually, the BBs I used for this adjustment were Tokyo Marui's 0.2g bio BBs.

I use G&G and S&T BBs for airsoft games, but they seem to be slightly larger than Tokyo Marui's.

Therefore last timeFor those who only use high-precision BBs (and nothing other than Marui BBs) in their setup, I think a 21.8mm length will provide the best hop-up performance.

ISince I use ammunition from various brands, I prioritized feeding accuracy and switched to 21.4mm.

The RetroArms nozzle has an adjustable length function, making it easy to change. After applying adhesive remover, apply adhesive and threadlocker again to fix the length.

I will discuss the effects later.

By the way, I was timing it with a clock, and it took me 15 minutes to get this far.

I've become more accustomed to disassembling things, but the ease of maintenance on the Kriss Vector, combined with the tips I've shared, has made me considerably faster at it.

I think anyone can do it in as little as 20 minutes, so please give it a try.

Next time, I'll show you the disassembly of the upper receiver and the results of the internal custom modifications.

KRYTAC Kriss Vector Black
I think it has high potential for customization.

KRYTAC Kriss Vector FDE
色違いです。

・KRYTAC Kriss Vector 2-tone color
I personally like this color.

・Chris Vector 95-round magazine
This is a spring-loaded magazine that holds approximately 96 rounds.

・Chriss Vector 95-round magazine 3-pack
Since there are no dedicated high-capacity magazines available, this is a great deal. With 3 magazines plus 1 (included with the gun), you can carry around 400 rounds in total, which is more than enough for airsoft games.