KRYTAC KRISS VECTOR custom build for increased muzzle velocity and rate of fire.

This time, we'll be customizing the internals of the Kriss Vector.

Basically, the previous oneReview & DisassemblySo, I'll address the issues I noticed: unstable initial velocity, poor response, slow cycle rate, spring noise, and gear noise.

So, let's start by defining the goals for the custom build and selecting the parts.

Parts selection

First, the goals for customization are as follows:

I'll go with that.

Here are the parts we selected.

I'll go with that.

Trigger stroke adjustment

By attaching a piece of plastic to the tip of the trigger that presses the switch, the trigger stroke can be adjusted.

Simply attach a board of your desired thickness to the position shown in the photo.

After making various adjustments,I preferred a thickness of 5mm.

The thickness is just enough so that even when the safety is engaged and the trigger is pulled, it won't touch the switch.

Tamiya 1.5mm thick plastic sheet　
Anything would have been fine, but I just went with Tamiya for some reason.

Gearbox customization

We will adjust the crucial AOE (Angle of Engagement).

We'll temporarily assemble the internal components and check the Age of Engagement (AOE).

It looks fine as it is, but since we're at it, let's refine it a bit more.

Adjust the cylinder head by attaching several 1mm thick sheets of Haneite rubber.

• Haneite, 1mm thick
In addition to adjusting the thickness, it seems to absorb shocks, which I think improves durability and sound quality.

The reason why the piston head is not increased isThey dislike the increased weight of moving parts and the need to glue parts to moving parts.Therefore, I won't do it.

Adding an extra nozzle to the cylinder head reduces the air volume, but in this case, we've increased the cylinder volume by slightly increasing the airflow velocity, so we believe the impact will be minimal.

Cut the Haneite rubber.

Attach the cut rubber to the cylinder head with super glue.

After applying Haneite, check the AOE again.

バッチリです。

Next, we'll check the nozzles that will be installed.

First, we'll assemble it with the cylinder head and check if it affects operation.

I'll also measure the length of the nozzle.

The AOLS nozzle has a double seal and is a bit stiff, so I removed one of the O-rings.

Digital calipers
It's a personal necessity for me.

Next, check the chamber and nozzle length.

We'll check the chamber by inserting a bullet.

We also check the hop-up and feeding mechanism. If the nozzle tip is visible from the feeding port when the nozzle retracts, there may be a feeding problem.

It looks okay. There are a few stumbles and hops, but it's fine.

Next, check for play in the piston.

I think there won't be any problems since I'll be using the original piston this time, but I'll check it just in case. I'll do a test assembly and touch the piston.

Just to be sure, I'll measure the rail width of the piston.

There were no problems.

Next, we'll perform an airtightness check.

Assemble the cylinder, cylinder head, piston, and piston head, plug the hole at the tip of the cylinder head, and push the piston to check for leaks. I forgot to take a picture, but there were no problems.

Next, we polish the sliding parts of the gearbox.

Use 1000-grit sandpaper to sand it down until the base layer is visible.

This is the gearbox on the other side.

Next is shim adjustment.

We will use the bevel as the reference point.

First, without adding shims, adjust the meshing width between the bevel gear and the motor, and the pinion and bevel gear. By the way, I've changed the motor from the original to an Airsoft97 Inazuma Motor Short.

Next, use a thickness gauge to measure the gap on the back of the bevel.

Check the thickness of the thickness gauge inserted into the gap.

The gap is 65mm, so we'll insert a shim of that thickness.

Incidentally, I don't put shims on the opposite side of the bevel. Basically, the position is determined by the motor and bevel, so I don't put any there. Another reason is that I think the fewer shims the better.

Next, we'll adjust the shims for the spur and sector gears.

The meshing tooth width will be increased and the gears will not come into contact with each other, but before that, I will eliminate the spring shim, which I don't like in this model.

I'm replacing the spring shim with a collar from LAYLAX. I used the longer 3.5mm one of the two available sizes.

This shows the meshing width of each gear after adjusting the shims.

Bevel and spur

The interlocking of bevel, spur, and sector gears

This determines the shim on one side, so all that's left is to assemble the gearbox and push the spur and sector gear shafts from the other side with a screwdriver or similar tool to get an idea of ​​the amount of play, and then add shims until there is no play.

Reassemble the gearbox, and if each gear rotates smoothly, then it's OK.

For instructions on how to adjust the shims, click here →My own method for adjusting shims on electric airsoft guns (bevel gear standard)

All that's left is to apply grease and assemble it, and you're done.

By the way, for the grease, I use Tamiya's Molybdenum (for bearings) on the bearings and GAW's G-GREASAE on the others.

Once the grease has been applied, assemble the parts.

Tamiya Molybdenum Grease
Based on my experience, I simply believe molybdenum is a good material for bearings.

GAW G-GREASE
This is a standard grease. It has a lower viscosity compared to the Bellhammer Gold series, so I use it inside the cylinders of both electric and airsoft guns. It's a bit pricey, but the quantity is large, so in the end, it doesn't feel overpriced.

There was some play between the motor holder and the motor, so I applied masking tape around the outer edge of the motor.

Now close the gearbox and you're done.

The assembly instructions are from last time.Review & DisassemblyPlease refer to this.

T-connector conversion

The Mini Tamiya connector has a low current capacity of 10A, so I will change it to a T-connector.

It can handle up to 50A.

(I don't run it that much, but) the wiring is 25 sq as standard, so I'll use it as is. Rather, it seems that thicker wiring than the standard wouldn't fit without considerable modification.

T-type connector　
It comes in a large quantity, is inexpensive, and convenient. It worked fine with T-connectors from another product line.

I've heard that this T-type connector can have compatibility issues and may not fit in all cases, but I've been able to connect it to other connectors without any problems.

It's a great deal and comes in a large quantity, so I recommend it.

I will create a separate page explaining recommended soldering techniques.

Hop chamber

First, we will process the inner barrel.

The hop-up window area of ​​the inner barrel has burrs that cannot be completely removed during mass production, so I lightly file them down. Furthermore, I lightly modify the window area so that it blends smoothly with the outer circumference of the barrel, making it easier for the hop-up to engage.

For details on the hop window processing, click here →I tried making my own G-HOP, Part 1: Production.

Next, apply Tokyo Marui high-viscosity grease to the hop-up mounting area of ​​the inner barrel and install the packing. (Do not apply grease to the hop-up window area.)

Apply sealing tape around the rear end of the hop chamber.

All that's left is to assemble the chamber and check that the hop-up protrusion comes down straight down, and you're done.

KAKUDAI Seal Tape
This is a standard product for all airtight applications.

All that's left is to assemble it and you're done.

Mainspring

I'm going to replace the mainspring. It's pretty easy to do on a Kriss Vector.

Please ignore the cat's pants.

Custom live-fire performance verification

Assemble the remaining partsReview & DisassemblyWe will measure under the same conditions as before.

First, I tested it by dry firing. The response is decent, the rate of fire is decent, there's no spring squeal, and no gear noise.

The measurement results showed a non-hop-up velocity of 88 m/s, a maximum on-hop-up initial velocity of 92 m/s, and a rate of fire of just under 15 rounds per second.

The slight increase in airflow velocity was successful. The initial velocity is also stable.

It's much better than when it was straight out of the box, but it still doesn't meet the responsiveness I'm aiming for, so I'd like to reconsider and proceed with further customization.

Aiming for improved response and faster cycle time.Customization continues.

KRYTAC Kriss Vector Black
I think it has high potential for customization.

KRYTAC Kriss Vector FDE
色違いです。

・KRYTAC Kriss Vector 2-tone color
I personally like this color.

・Chris Vector 95-round magazine
This is a spring-loaded magazine that holds approximately 96 rounds.

・Chriss Vector 95-round magazine 3-pack
Since there are no dedicated high-capacity magazines available, this is a great deal. With 3 magazines plus 1 (included with the gun), you can carry around 400 rounds in total, which is more than enough for airsoft games.