KRYTAC KRISSVECTOR Disassembly, Assembly Instructions and Customization

In the previous article, we covered the disassembly of the gearbox of the KRYTAC KRISS VECTOR.

This adjustment doesn't require disassembling the upper receiver, but I'll explain it anyway.

Disassembly of the upper receiver

The upper receiver is the one shown in the following picture.

Incidentally, the fuse is located in this upper receiver. Therefore, if you want to replace the fuse, you will need to remove the upper receiver.

The white areas are plastic sheets that were attached to shorten the trigger stroke.

The first thing you might be tempted to do is remove the stock, but there's no need to remove it unless you're replacing it. I recommend removing the top rail first.

This top rail is simply fitted in place.

In my case, the tool I use to remove this is the carrying handle of an M4.

However, many M4-type airsoft guns that people own these days don't have carrying handles, so if you don't have one, I recommend using a rail mount for a red dot sight or scope.

Anything else that won't break even if subjected to a slight impact would be fine.

Attach it to the top rail.

If you attach some kind of object to it, you can remove the top rail by lightly tapping it with a plastic hammer towards the muzzle.

Once the top rail is removed, three screws hidden within the rail will be revealed, so remove them.

A word of caution: there's a mysterious part just sitting there, so be careful not to lose it (maybe it's for aftermarket stock?).

Next, remove the two hex bolts on the ejection port cover and the hex bolt on the selector switch. Incidentally, the selector switch is ambidextrous, so there are bolts on both sides.

Once you've removed these parts, you can remove the V-shaped component at the front of the upper receiver and the ejection port cover.

By sliding part of the trigger guard and the trigger forward as shown in the photo below, you can remove the trigger unit, selector unit, and power unit.

This completes the process of disassembling the trigger assembly.

For those who want to replace their trigger with the recently released aluminum-machined trigger for the Kriss Vector, you can remove the trigger and replace it by punching out the pin shown in the following picture.

Personally, if you just want to change the trigger stroke, I recommend attaching a piece of plastic to the tip of the trigger.

It will be significantly cheaper.

Click here for details

At this point, we've basically disassembled almost all of the parts.

Custom Changes

Initially, I thought I could simply change the nozzle length from 21.8mm to 21.4mm. However, changing the nozzle length created a gap between the packing and the nozzle, resulting in an air leak.

Whether or not I applied hop-up, the muzzle velocity with 0.2g BBs reached 78m/s.

Apparently, the distance from the hop-up packing protrusion (where the BB is held) to the opening of the packing is relatively short on the Maple Leaf, so the nozzle couldn't reach it.

Therefore, I incorporated my go-to Miyagawa Rubber long-grip double-hold (medium) nitrile hardness 60.

・Miyagawa Rubber's Long-Handle Middle Hop Packing, Hardness 60
When in doubt, turn to Miyagawa-san. I'm assuming this is a genuine Tokyo Marui long-range hop-up packing. People tend to focus on the protrusion, but the shape of the mouthpiece is incredibly detailed and impressive.

Replacing the hop-up rubber is a hassle, so I'll just use the Omega Cushion Rubber from Maple Leaf that I installed previously.

While Maple Leaf's packing often yields excellent results with gas guns, for some reason, I frequently experience air leaks with my electric guns.

The most common cause is that the nozzle doesn't reach the opening of the packing. Extending the nozzle solves the problem, but it often results in feeding problems, so it's not always easy to get it right.

I've only tested Miyagawa Rubber's packing on electric airsoft guns, but in most cases it's a simple plug-and-play installation with no problems (I'd like to try it on gas-powered guns as well).

However, since the packing has a bifurcated protrusion, you need to carefully center it during assembly, otherwise the ball will have a curved trajectory.

Later, after Maple Leaf's hop-up packing for electric airsoft guns improved, it became possible to perfectly set up electric airsoft guns.

As a final adjustment, I'll use GAW's internal piston spring spacer to adjust the muzzle velocity (for pistons with an inner diameter of φ15mm).

After trying several options, I found that adding two 1mm pieces increased the height by 2mm. With the Kriss Vector, it's convenient because you can easily adjust it without disassembling it.

Apply grease to the spacer, then use a pin punch to insert it into the piston, making sure it doesn't flip over. The job is done quickly.

　

Simply insert the spacer into the piston, making sure it doesn't slip out of the pin punch, and you're done.

This spacer is very convenient,What you absolutely must not do is exceed the legally defined energy limit, or change the muzzle velocity after the initial velocity check has been completed at the airsoft field.

IfIf you want to change the muzzle velocity during a game, be sure to ask the field staff if it's allowed, and if you do, be sure to have the muzzle velocity checked (we generally do not recommend changing the muzzle velocity during a game).

Furthermore, a mechanical precaution is to ensure that the spacer does not bottom out when the spring is fully compressed (i.e., the spring is in close contact with the spacer). If the spring bottoms out, it will break with 100% certainty.

To check, once you've assembled everything, you can manually rotate the gears to activate the gearbox.

This time, one tooth has been cut off from the sector gear, so the spring's compression length is shorter, giving it some leeway.

Generally speaking, it's relatively safe to add spacers to a gearbox that has had its sector gear cut. However, with a standard gearbox, you should check to make sure the spring doesn't bottom out (it might be okay up to about 3mm).

・GAW Spring Spacer for Piston Internal Use
I use it for adjusting the initial velocity and stabilizing the spring's behavior. It seems that in the updated version, the piston and spring guide now share the same component.

That completes the adjustments. It's almost like fine-tuning.

Live-fire performance verification

Now we'll check the actual firing performance.

The conditions are as follows: the battery is a LAYLAX stick-in battery, LiPo 25-35C 1200mAh 7.4V, and the charge level is 7.6V.

The ammunition will be S&T's 0.2g bio BBs.

First, let's look at the initial velocity with hop-up set to 0.

When adjusting the hop-up, the point where the initial velocity is highest is around 4 out of 15 adjustment levels.

It's a little too high, but it will drop a bit once the springs wear out, so I'll leave it as is.

The initial velocity fluctuation is around ±0.5 m/s, which is pretty good. I think the fluctuation will decrease as the packing settles in.

Also, since the adjustment range for 0.2g is about level 4 out of 15, I think it can accommodate the 0.25g and 0.28g BBs that are usually permitted at regular meetings.

Next is the launch cycle.

It's a reasonable cycle.

My guess is that with a full charge, it will probably fire less than 18 rounds per second.

If you're interested, please also check out my review of the chronograph.

Next is the response.

Kriss Vector Semi-Automatic

Kriss Vector Full Auto

The firing sound is quite loud, so I've attached a silencer. The response and rate of fire are both good for me.

I managed to almost completely eliminate the gear noise, but the clicking sound of the anti-reverse latch still remains. This level of noise is acceptable, I suppose.

I'll check the trajectory later, but since it's a packing from Miyagawa Rubber, a company with a proven track record and reliability, I have high expectations.

It ended up having characteristics more like a marksman rifle than a submachine gun.

Assembly Tips

Assembly can be done by reversing the disassembly process, but I'll only explain the parts that require a few tricks.

First, regarding the order in which to tighten the bolts on the gearbox, you can basically do it in any order you like, but I tighten them gradually in a diagonal direction in the following order.

Next, regarding the outer barrel installation, it is secured with two bolts on each side (front and back), for a total of four bolts. However, since the front bolts are used for positioning, it is recommended to start tightening the front bolts first.

Attaching the bolt handle to the gearbox and lower receiver is easiest if you attach the bolt handle fixing plate with the gearbox halfway into the lower receiver (the longer bolt is on top, the shorter bolt is on the bottom).

Next, take a look at the other side of the lower receiver and make sure the motor's positive (red) wire doesn't stick out into the receiver. It's easy for it to stick out and can be frustrating.

If you don't open the gearbox frequently, you might consider securing the wiring with adhesive or tape.

Finally, here are the key points for installing the main spring and spring guide.

If you assemble it the normal way, the spring is stiff and the pin is difficult to insert, which is quite frustrating, so I'll introduce a recommended method.

Push in the spring and spring guide.

If you try to insert the pin here, it won't go in easily, so use a 6mm pin punch to secure it.

Now that the lid won't pop out, insert the pin facing the muzzle. The pin will easily go in if you lightly press down on the lid.

All that's left is to remove the pin punch and insert the remaining pins, and you're done.

If you disassemble and reassemble it like this, even I can finish it in about 20 minutes, as long as I don't need to adjust anything inside the gearbox.

It's quite easy and quick.

Summary

With this, I think we've managed to achieve a balance between decent range and responsiveness, without feeding problems even with low-quality ammunition.

The basic specifications are listed here, so please take a look if you're interested.

KRYTAC KRISS VECTOR internal customization completed.

Finally, I'll share my basic setup.

The red dot sight is a Vector Optics Maverick.

This is an ANS light (just for show) with a VFC M14 reverse thread Knights-type .45 caliber silencer (it also came with a standard thread adapter).

The markings on the silencer are reversed; I want to adjust it with a washer.

Thank you for your time.

KRYTAC Kriss Vector Black
I think it has high potential for customization.

KRYTAC Kriss Vector FDE
色違いです。

・KRYTAC Kriss Vector 2-tone color
I personally like this color.

・Chris Vector 95-round magazine
This is a spring-loaded magazine that holds approximately 96 rounds.

・Chriss Vector 95-round magazine 3-pack
Since there are no dedicated high-capacity magazines available, this is a great deal. With 3 magazines plus 1 (included with the gun), you can carry around 400 rounds in total, which is more than enough for airsoft games.