Up until now, I've just bought new motors and installed them as is, but I've found that breaking them in improves their initial performance slightly and makes the brushes last a little longer, so I'm going to make a motor break-in stand.
It's super easy, so please use it as a reference.
*This article aims to provide educational explanations from a mechanical engineering perspective regarding the safe hobby use of airsoft guns.
This does not promote acts of violence, the use of weapons, weapon modification, practical evaluation, or violation of laws and regulations.
Things to prepare
First, I'll arrange for the materials. The parts I chose are as follows:
AA battery box for 2 batteries, 3V in series, with switch.
Around 3V is probably just right for the break-in period. However, it might not work with motors that have high power consumption.
AA battery box for 4 batteries, 3V in series, with switch.
For powerful motors with high power consumption, I think 6V is better. I could only find them in packs of two.
・Amon 0.75 sq wiring
It's just a lead wire, so I think any wire will do.
• Heat shrink tubing set
I think anything is fine for this too.
Mini vise
It's inexpensive and versatile. For example, you can use it to extend the life of a motor during the break-in period.
・110 type Faston terminal set
I don't think it's a part you'd particularly choose out of curiosity.
You can easily find them at Amazon, Rakuten, Yahoo! Shopping, or at home improvement stores or 100-yen shops.
I'm a heavy Amazon user, so I bought it there. It cost about 1500 yen in total.
Now, let's make a simple training stand.
Creating a motor break-in stand
First, the wiring in the battery box is too short and difficult to manage, so I'll extend it by connecting it with Amon wiring.
Cut two pieces of wire to a suitable length and twist them together with the wiring in the battery box.
The photo shows someone using wire cutters, but you can probably do it with wire cutters or nail clippers as well.
• Electrician's pliers
Having wire strippers is incredibly useful for working with electrical wiring, so I highly recommend them. I don't have a particular brand recommendation, but be careful not to buy anything too cheap, as they won't be very good.
Normally, you would solder the wires together, but since this is just for breaking them in, I'll just cover them with heat shrink tubing.
You can use a lighter to heat-shrink tubing. A turbo lighter is convenient if possible. It might get a little burnt, but don't worry about it.
Next, attach the Faston terminals that connect to the motor. First, strip the wires, then crimp the terminals.
Ideally, solder should be applied to the terminals here as well, but since this is just a test run, we'll leave it as is. Here too, if you don't have electrical pliers, you can just break off the tabs with regular pliers as a last resort.
Also, slightly widening the Faston terminals with a flathead screwdriver makes them easier to attach to the motor. This is recommended because it's troublesome if the motor terminals break.
Next, cover the Faston terminals with heat shrink tubing. Be careful not to mix up the positive and negative terminals.
Finally, connect the motor and attach the vise, and you're done.
This can be done in about 15 minutes.
Performing motor break-in
Now, let's try using the training stand we made.
Break-in process (video)
It's spinning nicely. Maybe 15 minutes of spinning should be enough.
The break-in stand I created this time runs on two AA batteries, so it operates at 3V, which I think is just right as it doesn't put too much load on the system.
Summary
Now the motor break-in stand is complete. If you've replaced the brushes on a new motor, or even just replaced the motor itself, it might be a good idea to break it in.
Furthermore, if your motor has a removable end bell, it's a good idea to apply molybdenum grease to the rotor bearings and the bushings or bearings in the motor tower before breaking it in. (Some manufacturers' motors do not have removable end bells.)
是非、参考にしてみて下さい。
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